Friday, August 3, 2018

. . . and Found



The clock is ticking. Rapidly. One week from today we will be sadly winging our way back to Chicago. And I will continue to kick myself for making this such a short visit. Sid keeps reminding me that we are used to being here for 3 months; this time it's just two. There were legitimate reasons: we were here 6 months ago, the cost of housing for 2 summer months was the same as 3 in the winter, and the all-important ability to upgrade our flights (heaven forbid we should fly coach). Besides it's no easier to leave after 3 months than after two.

The closer we get to leaving, the more I attempt to pack the remaining time with things we haven't done before. On Shabbat we walked over to the Botanic Garden, which we've never been to. It was nice, but because it was Shabbat all the activities (like a rock wall and very short zip line) were closed. Still it's a very nice place in the middle of the city.

Waterfall in the Botanic Garden

Most activities were closed for Shabbat, but they kept the stocks open.
Wonder what kind of message that sends.

Water lilies and pirate ship.

On Sunday we went to the City of David. We've been there before, but the dig is on-going and it seems every week another critical object is unearthed from the rubble. It's still not agreed among all archaeologists that this is where King David ruled, but there's all kinds of evidence pointing in that direction. Altho we've been there before, this was a completely different tour. Instead of going all the way down to the bottom of the site, we made our way through a very narrow tunnel to the Western Wall. The guide was very good and we were a small group - just 8 of us.

Tunnel to the Western Wall from the City of David
That evening we had dinner in the plaza outside the Music Museum at a restaurant called Kinor in the Plaza. It was fabulous. My new favorite restaurant here. Afterwards we went to a comedy show called the Aliyah Monologues, about the foibles and eccentricities of living here. The comedian (standupist in Hebrew) is originally from Rochester NY. It was so-so, and at times he was a bit antagonistic to the audience. Glad we went but I wouldn't go again.


Dinner at Kinor in the Plaza with Jenny and Dave


Then there was Monday, my birthday and the reason for coming here in the summer. I decided if I have to be 70, it might as well be in Israel which is also 70.

We started the day with a Shuk tour, given by the person who originated the tour in English. An interesting character herself, it was very informative. She talked about the history and pointed out the various vendors and restaurants she likes. It took two hours, after which you can't help but be hungry. We had a light lunch at Azura, a very well known Iraqi/Kurdish restaurant famous for its kubbeh soup and various ways of serving hoummous, and the fact that everything is slow-cooked on kerosene stoves like they did in the old country.

Tour guide Sybil Kaplan, who lived in West Rogers Park at one time.

Pots simmering on kerosene stoves at Azura



There was just enough time to nap, then it was off to the Rimon restaurant. We had 26 people and TONS of food. It was lovely, just what I wanted.

Before the guests arrived





And after 


AND in the middle of the party I got a call from Jessica. It was noisy and I couldn't hear her, but I did hear her say something about a phone and a what'sapp. I looked at my phone and there was a message that someone had found my lost phone! It was missing for a week and I had given up all hope of ever seeing it again. How it surfaced and who found it remain a mystery, but whoever left the message said it would be at a restaurant on the Music Museum plaza, ironically right next to the restaurant where we ate the night before. After the party we walked over and picked it up. People said it was a birthday miracle, and indeed it was.

After getting my phone back. Truly a birthday miracle.


Because you can never have too many happy occasions, the following evening we went to Julia and Don Aaronson's grandson's wedding. It was in a garden in Kfar Etzion, a place that has seen its share of tragedies, about 20 minutes outside of Jerusalem. Every wedding has magical moments. The one that particularly resonated with me was when the 7th wedding blessing was recited. It's the one about the happy voices of brides and grooms being heard in the streets of Jerusalem and the surrounding cities. It comes from Jeremiah, who witnessed the destruction of the Temple, and out of the depths of despair prophesied that one day people would again celebrate marriage and life in the very places of devastation. And there we were, facing the Judean Hills as the sun set, and the words of the prophet weren't written on subway walls, but were in fact coming true on this hilltop.


Sid and Julia

I've said it before and can't say it enough. Nobody puts on a show like the Israelis. Last night we went to the Wine Festival at the Israel Museum. We didn't know this was a thing until a couple weeks ago when a friend mentioned it. And we're never here in the summer so there's no reason we would have. It was amazing. About 30 wineries, plus makers of cheeses, olive oils and chocolates participated. And there was a terrific band. It was wonderful and we got to try some of the lesser known boutique wines that we can't get in the States.






They had a frites food truck. I have no idea where they dug this old model up.


This is the artist who decorated the metal doors in the Shuk




And so we ended the week. One more to go.

Shabbat shalom from Jerusalem,
Peggy and Sid

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