tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-79405801870607789662024-03-05T22:22:14.124-08:00Peg and Sid's blogPeg and Sidhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13785932543768697067noreply@blogger.comBlogger80125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7940580187060778966.post-14255513295960916162020-01-04T08:06:00.001-08:002020-01-04T08:06:33.349-08:00Spain +<div style="text-align: justify;">
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Spain was ... well, I can't give it an overall grade. What cast a big shadow over Madrid was the hotel; not the hotel per se, which was actually very good, but the location. It was by the airport with no good access to the city 35 miles away. Public transportation involved taking a bus to the metro, which wasn't a big deal. It was cheap and took about 45 minutes. A taxi was 35 Euros. And there was a lot of back-and-forth. The reason we stayed there is because Moshe stayed there over the summer with his family, which was fine when you're travelling with 3 kids who don't want to sight see all day, because it had a nice outdoor pool and it was close to a big shopping center which was great for his shopaholic wife. But for us it was a pain. This is why people need a travel agent.</div>
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The highlights were walking down the Gran Via, the flamenco dinner show, the ceremony we had for Batsheva, visiting Bernabeu Stadium (where Real Madrid plays), a day trip to Toledo (yet another European Jewish graveyard) and dinner at a place called, oddly, Ten Con Ten. Food was amazing.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsz28Dxx36xnAi62ge4PJIGMHuKE_ev0ALXgSBG0LLdob1TOh41K8ct8DndmVaF74d5XmvShQF0sdmTE0RXtm_XsAX9rrDyQFePSDkAfFJrvOhCLbzJ_QZobDRfZdreDUNokvcDNN2jzLI/s1600/20191226_222032.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="112" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsz28Dxx36xnAi62ge4PJIGMHuKE_ev0ALXgSBG0LLdob1TOh41K8ct8DndmVaF74d5XmvShQF0sdmTE0RXtm_XsAX9rrDyQFePSDkAfFJrvOhCLbzJ_QZobDRfZdreDUNokvcDNN2jzLI/s200/20191226_222032.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh31MV6oIDIiYRJyjz-Myt49PHl940aBBlH6QXp2QR3CHhrdzwn6StGdjOBIE7Q8RYNV9RSsgS3iWyQPuy5CPqzotvvgVAqx2fVZITFVa1tn_j1yfpx411wo-XjLNe5MMx3DdJfT_s1kCkY/s1600/20191226_225624.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="112" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh31MV6oIDIiYRJyjz-Myt49PHl940aBBlH6QXp2QR3CHhrdzwn6StGdjOBIE7Q8RYNV9RSsgS3iWyQPuy5CPqzotvvgVAqx2fVZITFVa1tn_j1yfpx411wo-XjLNe5MMx3DdJfT_s1kCkY/s200/20191226_225624.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg82gRw4WXOOBDd5_7454MLMniPsYFKQGoXICNPAJ9CbHqkBiWDX4KGy0apUoJG3OofBIZ-fG5hB2W7YB2uSUHPcIxck0d2Z1G1cA3qDQzQknMKUzZqVgPIsFtJAiGtmIrgbVnaWfnC7TTo/s1600/20191226_230441.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="112" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg82gRw4WXOOBDd5_7454MLMniPsYFKQGoXICNPAJ9CbHqkBiWDX4KGy0apUoJG3OofBIZ-fG5hB2W7YB2uSUHPcIxck0d2Z1G1cA3qDQzQknMKUzZqVgPIsFtJAiGtmIrgbVnaWfnC7TTo/s200/20191226_230441.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Batsheva's birthday dinner at Cardamomo Flamenco Club</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrLvmSAkxH-ykya9fZuRpHZhRMEyzUA0bXFiSFenU1MVrUIxtMiTfGj1ES8kRsc6mg97VQvInqIUjFOVQVxHcYzT9dapsMa-9v6Y3bbLrmOTZn5oHTyn68d32ozNmr0xRqX4jucHhYLb93/s1600/20191227_003508.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrLvmSAkxH-ykya9fZuRpHZhRMEyzUA0bXFiSFenU1MVrUIxtMiTfGj1ES8kRsc6mg97VQvInqIUjFOVQVxHcYzT9dapsMa-9v6Y3bbLrmOTZn5oHTyn68d32ozNmr0xRqX4jucHhYLb93/s200/20191227_003508.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yafit spent the past 2 months writing this book. <br />It's a collection of family stories and recipes in honor of Batsheva's birthday <br />and Batsheva and Eli's 50th anniversary which is Jan 5, 2021.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">L to R<br />Sid, Moshe, Eli, Yafit , Batsheva</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQmaNBOGg45YFsRiIsd1Y1WqPNzcF9ymnzSBjsvOoSls3Bcf8Rm4zkJfJYGzv8xZIt5ZkJCbiy_aHlwNeKCqW6-SA3dJnDKaI1wjQQwScHwOajteBwdPINpqarUWvr1CI2B5bU0hb1Z4_2/s1600/20191227_130943.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQmaNBOGg45YFsRiIsd1Y1WqPNzcF9ymnzSBjsvOoSls3Bcf8Rm4zkJfJYGzv8xZIt5ZkJCbiy_aHlwNeKCqW6-SA3dJnDKaI1wjQQwScHwOajteBwdPINpqarUWvr1CI2B5bU0hb1Z4_2/s200/20191227_130943.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">What used to be the most prestigious synagogue in Toledo</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJD7mjCKWcufDoYQmmM-GG_En06clAtWzzWQ1lMhdJdKnvZPK1tENK8aBkGJMFtdKjgJFT1eUXTC5tLdX5uS8rtYsNu2hzD3gO9oO4vSfTTGZsnIdX86P-oApG4C59Cyf-OW6RgfkC1Wc1/s1600/20191227_164754.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJD7mjCKWcufDoYQmmM-GG_En06clAtWzzWQ1lMhdJdKnvZPK1tENK8aBkGJMFtdKjgJFT1eUXTC5tLdX5uS8rtYsNu2hzD3gO9oO4vSfTTGZsnIdX86P-oApG4C59Cyf-OW6RgfkC1Wc1/s200/20191227_164754.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At the Toledo train station</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4LNeYaIJsfURcpXun0aOy03IYaW1YjG8GGwKa5ehZqkeqxBUxQZi063anczjh5k8KdFCnBLrpnnJjd5zbJqW7wKLrzJhvuMjXTjQJ6QtyralzfjmJiPlhvMzhQw2P15qhqzSS85aIl1VI/s1600/20191228_141715.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="112" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4LNeYaIJsfURcpXun0aOy03IYaW1YjG8GGwKa5ehZqkeqxBUxQZi063anczjh5k8KdFCnBLrpnnJjd5zbJqW7wKLrzJhvuMjXTjQJ6QtyralzfjmJiPlhvMzhQw2P15qhqzSS85aIl1VI/s200/20191228_141715.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The sacred ground of Bernabeu</td></tr>
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Then we took the Ave (fast train) to Seville. We sat in business class which was a treat. Leather seats and actual dinner service. It only took 2.5 hours. We arrived at 1030 and took a cab to Las Casas de la Juderia in the medieval part of town. Because it appeals to the I've-been-here-before aspect of my personality, I loved it. It's comprised of several conjoined houses dating back to the 15th Century, very similar to the Pulitzer in Amsterdam and the Rubens and Rembrandt in Bruges. Absolutely loaded with quaint and charm. I don't know when the last hanukkiah was lit in Seville, but because this was the last night and because I bought a cheap tin throw-away hanukkiah to bring along, we might have been the first to light in 500 years.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The hotel is 600 years old with lots of very flammable wood.<br />For safety's sake I lit the hanukkiah in the tub.</td></tr>
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We had a walking tour the next morning with an outstanding guide, Alvaro Carmona. The three hour tour turned into four. Truth is, I've never had much interest in Spain and consequently never studied about it. Nor do I speak Spanish, which is pretty unusual since I speak everything else. I always figured it's because in a previous life I was burned at the stake and I still carry a grudge. But Alvaro turned me around. He started by sitting us down with a map and giving us a history lesson. The city was part of the Roman Empire, conquered by Muslims in 711 and ruled until 1492, gradually reconquered by the Catholics for almost the same amount of time, who ultimately expelled them along with the Jews in 1492. The interesting thing about this series of conquests is that nothing was destroyed, everything was re-purposed. The city wall, built by the Muslims, is 7.5 miles long. It's been incorporated in many of the buildings. Part of a Roman aqueduct was used as the outer wall of the Alcazar, which itself is an amalgam of mosque, government administration, royal palace and a church. Etc etc. In it's heyday Seville was the most powerful city in Europe. Besides it's empire, it was the main port of entry to Europe and collected tons of taxes. The cathedral (re-purposed from a mosque) was built with silver and gold (measured in tons) brought over from South America. You get the picture. Jews, of course, played a very important role in all of this. They knew commerce, trading, accounting and languages. And pretty much everyone, Muslims, Jews and Catholics, got along for a couple of centuries. Then along came Queen Isabella and the rest is a sad history.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Narrow streets, colorful buildings</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Girona Tower, formerly a minaret</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHbyZKUn9Lqjvz8dCqOyyZqJN26IInGqHswlo9IhSB5ev_SYqyMyU24nHCJ7bduOFr4HO_bWwBGzd9oeRlH0odDbLI6Z9vaP9CEEWiKgL-IPI81e5nz4uY1LH8mrIMPOnSaBUpJ6_1J3DK/s1600/20191230_125906.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHbyZKUn9Lqjvz8dCqOyyZqJN26IInGqHswlo9IhSB5ev_SYqyMyU24nHCJ7bduOFr4HO_bWwBGzd9oeRlH0odDbLI6Z9vaP9CEEWiKgL-IPI81e5nz4uY1LH8mrIMPOnSaBUpJ6_1J3DK/s200/20191230_125906.jpg" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">All they had to do was add a bell to the tower and it became a church</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDLWwR-Qwrj-CpxcmdHmWIZUn8zAcZyPIP6tdAs52Swd8nqKp1-VvJ45oZBy73HBVwKyopn9ApHVNAJG4Q3NKfV41GRpAe0tfLeovmwUe0Apfz2EerF-Y1AJrV20JkwBWDru4ySkf9WgUs/s1600/20191230_131743.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDLWwR-Qwrj-CpxcmdHmWIZUn8zAcZyPIP6tdAs52Swd8nqKp1-VvJ45oZBy73HBVwKyopn9ApHVNAJG4Q3NKfV41GRpAe0tfLeovmwUe0Apfz2EerF-Y1AJrV20JkwBWDru4ySkf9WgUs/s200/20191230_131743.jpg" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The amount of gold and silver is measured in tons</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-NdQRjQxloeG-2cL9Q0G62pfLt4Ev1C04e7I3LK6ZOZ1sYwvS3lwchcLcCog1ov9TjZsbWyBUf9ianwGPdNzzEpJ7SpLsYztzDVId36QhcPZUuawpvKMM3abaL_3yAOkc4QyVIclOWLTg/s1600/20191230_132509.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-NdQRjQxloeG-2cL9Q0G62pfLt4Ev1C04e7I3LK6ZOZ1sYwvS3lwchcLcCog1ov9TjZsbWyBUf9ianwGPdNzzEpJ7SpLsYztzDVId36QhcPZUuawpvKMM3abaL_3yAOkc4QyVIclOWLTg/s200/20191230_132509.jpg" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Christopher Columbus' final resting place.<br />His first grave was in Valladolid where he died in 1506.<br />His son had the body moved to a monastery in Seville not long after, where it rested until 1542.<br />From there it was moved to Santo Domingo.<br />In 1795 it went to Havana, where he rested until Cuba got its independence from Spain in 1898.<br />He finally made it back to Seville and was buried in a grand manner in the cathedral.<br />Sort of fitting for someone whose fame derived from crossing the ocean several times.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgezkh2qmiw3MugC16KRK97HXJvcDAM2iBpvhHrurrb2P8FuU5agwQi_ow1bewYtg2nmbEnIjClp3WYtRM-EuWIrD8x0ZBOQDuxZp5mLiT1_6x30dKc5GPjU8z3VSvWHYwc5K0upOqnoM9j/s1600/20191230_145329.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgezkh2qmiw3MugC16KRK97HXJvcDAM2iBpvhHrurrb2P8FuU5agwQi_ow1bewYtg2nmbEnIjClp3WYtRM-EuWIrD8x0ZBOQDuxZp5mLiT1_6x30dKc5GPjU8z3VSvWHYwc5K0upOqnoM9j/s200/20191230_145329.jpg" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Courtyard, tiles and garden of the Alcazar</td></tr>
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We left Spain on Dec 31. Our flight landed at 1045PM and the plan was to take the train to Jerusalem. Unfortunately the last train left the station at 930PM. There is a bus that departs hourly, on the hour. We thought about waiting for the midnight bus, but decided to take a sherut instead. What a 3-ring circus. Several people were gathered at the one sherut that was parked, while the driver figured out which passengers would go with him, and which would go in the next one which was supposed to have been there 5 minutes ago. Four of us were going to the same neighborhood, so it was a matter of dividing up the remaining passengers. The second sherut finally showed up and the two drivers started debating about who would go in which vehicle. This required a spreadsheet. As we waited, the bus to Jerusalem arrived. Should we or shouldn't we? The drivers finally figured out how to divide us up and promised that we would be the second stop. So we ushered in 2020 in a sherut to Jerusalem. </div>
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We made our final trek to the shuk on Wednesday to get all the things we want to bring back. </div>
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Yesterday we spent the better part of the day in Tel Aviv. We met with the Jaffa Institute representative who took us to two locations. They do amazing work with a population that badly needs help. The first visit was with the director of a program called Welfare to Well-being. It's only for women, ages 20s to 50s, who have never been part of the workforce. They get training in basic computer skills, business communication, budgeting, interview skills, how to dress for the workplace. In addition they get one-on-one time with a counselor/life coach. They go through a rigorous interview process to qualify for the program and they have to sign a contract to show up promptly every day and stay the full day. There are no dropouts and 100% of the graduates find decent jobs. </div>
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From there we went to see a new suite hotel in Tel Aviv, The Levee, which opened 6 months ago. They sent an email to my agency owner which she forwarded to me. This place was too weird for words. The front door was locked and there was an entry key pad. No visible lobby or anyone walking around. We were about to leave when someone appeared and I knocked on the window. He let us in, grudgingly, with a look that said who sent you? I explained about the email and he agreed to show us a suite. An apartment actually. It was very impressive. The building was rehabbed and 4 floors were added. I asked how to book. He said guests contact the hotel and they decide whether or not to accept them. Hmmm. He said most of the guests are well known and they have to be very discreet. Since the apartments (only 8 of them) are 1 to 3 bedrooms it's not the kind of place you bring your girlfriend. As nice as it was I can't think of anyone who would be a good fit.</div>
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From there we went to our granddaughter's apartment for dinner. It's her first grown up apartment, two bedrooms/2 bathrooms. Dori lives with her boyfriend Itzik, who's at Hebrew University studying agronomy. Dori is studying design at the Holon Institute. And Meital, who's at MIT studying computer engineering, is visiting for a month. We had a lovely evening with them. They are all nice kids and we're very proud of them.</div>
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When we got back to Jerusalem (we took the bus) it was close to midnight. We took the light rail to downtown and caught a bus home. The number of people out and about, including parents pushing baby carriages, was astounding. Once upon a time in Jerusalem the sidewalks rolled up at 9PM. Not anymore. </div>
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So here we are, our last Shabbat. It's getting harder and harder to leave. I told Sid the next time we come we'll buy one way tickets. He's not there yet, but he agreed (in front of witnesses) that next time we'll come for 4 months. </div>
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Shabbat shalom, for the last time this visit, from Jerusalem,</div>
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Peggy and Sid</div>
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Peg and Sidhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13785932543768697067noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7940580187060778966.post-54306504049852408792019-12-20T04:58:00.002-08:002020-01-03T01:28:05.474-08:00Two weeks left<br />
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There's a well known Rabbi in town, Beryl Wein, who has a lecture series on Saturday nights in the winter. We've attended several in the years we've been coming here for an extended stay. The topic this year is 100 years later - how World War 1 continues to affect the world and the Jewish people today. I wish we were staying longer (for all kinds of reasons) to be able to hear all 10 lectures. He's a very good speaker, another one who doesn't use notes which seems to be de rigueur around here. </div>
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As our time here winds down I've had to pack a lot of things into the calendar that I've more or less put off. This week it was getting together with Timna, an American-Israeli friend from Chicago who came back to Israel after 20+ years in the States. We met for coffee and then went to a play that a co-worker was in. The play, surprisingly well written and acted by an amateur theatre group, touched all the points on the emotional scale. </div>
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Everyone knows The Hunt for Red October. This week it was The Hunt for Colonia. The first question is: what is Colonia? I've been hearing about it for years. It's supposed to cure everything. My friends swear by it. It heals cuts and bruises. It helps an upset stomach. It's good for aching joints. Etc. If it's such a great product you'd think you could find it everywhere. Actually not. There is one little hole-in-the-wall store in Tel Aviv that sells it. So on Wednesday Batsheva and I hopped on a bus to Tel Aviv (the sleazy part) for a little shopping trip. </div>
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Tel Aviv has two central bus stations - the old one and the new one. Duh. The old one is really something to see. In its heyday, which wasn't so long ago, it was a destination in itself. It's 6 stories tall and was essentially a big shopping mall with a bus depot attached. Unfortunately it's in an unfortunate part of town. Up till a couple years ago there were a lot of homeless squatters who made camp in a park outside the station. It's not the sort of place you'd want to walk around at night. But during the day it's fine, and that's where the Levinsky Market is. The market neighborhood used to be mostly Turkish, and that's where you go for authentic Turkish products, of which Colonia is one. Then it was a matter of finding the shop. We looked into a couple of the small stores, and finally had to ask someone. Where can we buy Colonia? Everyone knew, of course. Go to the shop next to the bakery. </div>
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The shop owner was typical of the small businessmen of a generation that I thought died out a long time ago. Surly. Unfriendly. But he was the Colonia guy, so you just have to put up with him. We asked for 8 one litre bottles. He had 7 on the shelf. He tried to sell us one of the larger bottles. We said no, we want 8 of litre size. He made a big show of looking for an 8th bottle and then miraculously, on the shelf below, he found an entire carton full one one litre bottles. We had to bargain, of course. After all we were buying in bulk. So he agreed to lower the price by 2 and a half shekels, to 35 shekels per bottle. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQUgchyk-CayKYkS_C4ghGR03g20Jh0LtMlHY9H3WHHjIZDF1gfu6rpVYuBTCER3eYX8AHgYJoyXjr9lw6ZnqnuTq4JUPwW3ALCPs8OO-xX0hYULxS1kHBUoqDAs10zyNKoj57aHr1-k-o/s1600/20191218_121946.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="112" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQUgchyk-CayKYkS_C4ghGR03g20Jh0LtMlHY9H3WHHjIZDF1gfu6rpVYuBTCER3eYX8AHgYJoyXjr9lw6ZnqnuTq4JUPwW3ALCPs8OO-xX0hYULxS1kHBUoqDAs10zyNKoj57aHr1-k-o/s200/20191218_121946.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Levinsky Market in the sleazy part of town</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The shop, the ONLY shop, that sells Colonia.<br />
Behind the owner is a shelf full.<br />
The only other things he sells are large cans of anchovies, lots of olives<br />
and some smoked and pickled fish.</td></tr>
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From Levinsky we went to another market, the famous Carmel Market. It was a quick bus ride away. We walked around for a while and then went to get something for lunch at a great Yeminite restaurant called Mangana.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdgAT9n4Jde_MjmbqcxXWEVuAJKiHDOxJf6Rf-Y33l3dqBqEPGDVqY3eRNpXVuSw8xKAfzJeL9oca4EPXtO0jBNEkp0ql3TtgegtLN_q-Vx8Is7o4aw4rtnduqsfarAnxw3rsvTVVWQh6Q/s1600/20191218_125546.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="112" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdgAT9n4Jde_MjmbqcxXWEVuAJKiHDOxJf6Rf-Y33l3dqBqEPGDVqY3eRNpXVuSw8xKAfzJeL9oca4EPXtO0jBNEkp0ql3TtgegtLN_q-Vx8Is7o4aw4rtnduqsfarAnxw3rsvTVVWQh6Q/s200/20191218_125546.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Busy, bustling Carmel Market</td></tr>
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After lunch we made our way to the new bus station and caught the bus back to Jerusalem. Fortunately the traffic flowed and we got to Jerusalem at 430PM, a bit later than I wanted because I had to meet my friend Bevie at Hebrew University for a harp concert that started a 5. Traffic was pretty congested so I hopped in a taxi. We went a couple of blocks and then it was a parking lot. Traffic jams in Jerusalem are legendary, and this was epic. Long story short, I got there with 5 minutes to spare. The concert was lovely. It was the first time I'd seen a harp played from up close. Who knew there were foot pedals?<br />
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Hanukkah starts Sunday night. On Monday everyone is coming over here. I should think about what to make. On Wednesday we're going to Madrid, not something I'd recommend in the winter. But Batsheva is turning 70 and instead of a party she wanted to go abroad. I don't think she cared about the destination. No one consulted me; I would have said somewhere warm-ish like Greece, Sicily, Malta or Cyprus. The kids decided on Madrid, which is what happens when the kids are in charge. I'm not taking my laptop to Spain, so next week's post will be delayed by a few days.<br />
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Shabbat shalom and Hanukkah sameach from Jerusalem,<br />
Peggy and Sid<br />
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Peg and Sidhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13785932543768697067noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7940580187060778966.post-53070398619911985052019-12-13T06:28:00.001-08:002019-12-13T06:28:31.276-08:00Connections, Culture and Cocktails<br />
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Busy week ...</div>
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Started the week (Sunday and Monday) by going to our regular classes. After the Monday class I had lunch with my friend Bevie, who I've known for close to 50 years. And she looks almost the same as she did back then. It was supposed to be a quick lunch because she had things to do, but as usual when we get together it's not less than 3 hours. On the way to lunch we popped in for a quick tour of the new Ibis Hotel that (finally) opened on Ben Yehuda Street. It, like most things in Israel, has been under construction for years longer than it should have been. </div>
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We had a bat mitzvah on Tuesday night. Naturally I couldn't show up without a visit to my hairdresser, Nabil. I met Batsheva at the salon, we both had our hair done and then went to lunch. Another 3 hour event.</div>
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By their head covering shall you know them. There are a number of communities on the spectrum of orthodoxy here. Most of our friends are modern orthodox, known in the vernacular as "kipa srgua" (knitted kipa). Just as it sounds, the men wear crocheted kipas and many of the married women cover their hair with scarves or hats, sometimes but not always. Women in this group are usually more participatory in religious activities, but not at the same level as men. (Feminist alert: You are not a man and never will be. There is no such thing as "gender neutral". Get over yourselves.) The idea of having a bat mitzvah for girls is fairly recent. Because girls don't participate in the same way boys do, a bat mitzvah is usually just a party, reminiscent of a sweet 16. Still this is a way to acknowledge that at age 12 girls are excepted to take on the role of an adult Jewish woman.</div>
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We went to the bat mitzvah of the granddaughter of good friends of ours from Chicago. I love these events. It's not about the party, it's about continuity. Another generation assuming the role of a Jewish adult. Of course, there is context. The grandfather is a survivor of multiple concentration camps. For him to see his grandchildren living in Israel, growing up religious, maintaining the values, practices and traditions, has a meaning that far exceeds the usual grandparents' and parents' nachas (pride). </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Proud parents Miryam and Eli, with bat mitzvah daughter Yael</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Saba (grandfather) and Yael</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Batia and Arnold</td></tr>
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The culture part of this week's post was on Wednesday afternoon. We've seen the permanent exhibits at the Israel Museum a thousand times; unless there's a special exhibit we usually don't go. This time there were four. We spent the whole afternoon there, which tested the limits of endurance. The exhibits were excellent, spanning archaeology, mythology, literature, clothing, photography and video.</div>
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We had lunch yesterday with Doris and Norm, friends from Chicago who are literally the accidental immigrants. They came on a visit a couple years ago and never went back. A health issue occurred that made it pretty much impossible for Norm to travel. They were fortunate to have people who cleaned out and sold their home, and shipped the items they wanted to keep. We got together with them during our last visit (summer 2018). They looked fantastic then, and continue to do so. They have a great apartment, kids, grandchildren and 19 great-grandchildren who keep tabs on them, and have never been happier. They are both in their 90's and have been married 72 years. </div>
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After visiting Norm and Doris, we went to our friend Ida's for cocktails. She's a great cook and hostess and has delightful friends. A wonderful way to unwind.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ida with Jeff and Diane</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Self explanatory</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ida with Sam and Debra</td></tr>
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Shabbat shalom from Jerusalem,</div>
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Peggy and Sid</div>
Peg and Sidhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13785932543768697067noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7940580187060778966.post-73780274820503330522019-12-06T05:47:00.000-08:002019-12-06T05:48:18.512-08:00Another calendar page turns over ...<br />
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Well here it is December and I'm mentally counting down the days we have left. Then I look at my to-do list to see how many things I can squeeze in and I'm starting to realize just how little time that is. Considering we will be in Spain (more about that in an upcoming post) for a week at the end of the month, we only have 3 weeks netto, as they say here.</div>
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Besides joining a gym, I've been busy training with Shefa and my original krav maga teacher, Moshe. We met on Tuesday at a large public park, Gan Sacker, and trained outside, Yes, it was that warm. We trained for 3 hours, split between learning the finer points of momentum and leverage and disarming guns and knives. Very cool stuff.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Learning to push off an attacker.</td></tr>
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<span style="text-align: justify;">On Wednesday we went to Tel Aviv to meet Dori and Itzik, her bf, for lunch. We took the train and it was very quick and efficient. Once we got to Tel Aviv we had to take a local bus to the Carmel Market to meet Dori. The hardest part of the transportation was locating the bus stop. The train station is connected to the bus station by a bridge that goes over a major highway, so they are more or less together, which solves the confusion of two weeks ago when Sid went back to Sar-el. They have done a lot of renovations, but someone forgot to tell them to make signage for the buses. The bus parking lot is huge. The bus stop signs are small. I asked a driver where the #18 bus was and he replied, in typical Israeli fashion, over there. So we walked "over there", and finally found it. The rest was a piece of cake. We met at Erez Hatemani, one of the hole in the wall restaurants in the Yeminite Quarter, which used to be a slum and is now prime real estate. Location, location, location. It's very close to the beach and the Bauhaus neighborhood. We sat outside; yes, it was that warm. It's always interesting to talk to young Israelis about their plans for the future, which usually include a several-months break before settling down to the working world. This, of course, is after the several-months post-army trip. I'm all for it. If you don't do it when you're young by the time you get around to it you're too old. These trips involve hiking, backpacking, hitchhiking. camping, hostels and local buses. </span><br />
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After lunch Sid and I went to Liebling Haus, a new museum in the Bauhaus neighborhood. It opened in September with a special exhibit called Transferumbau (Transfer Agreements), which was the name of a program between 1933-1939 that made it possible to get some assets out of Germany. This is a little-known chapter of the pre-War Holocaust. Jews who had the foresight and means to get out of Germany and go to the Mandate were prohibited from taking assets with them. A program was set up between the German government and the Jewish Agency whereby Jews could sell assets, deposit them in a bank, and purchase construction materials with those funds. While Liebling Haus was being renovated walls that through time had been plastered over and floors that had been re-tiled were uncovered. Lo and behold German building materials from the 1930's were uncovered: wall and floor tiles manufactured by Villeroy & Boch, plumbing fixtures, doorknobs, building materials etc made by other German companies. The curators mounted photographs of the two families that lived in the building, along with photographic collages of the rehab work. A small and highly personal account of two families who were forced by circumstances to flee the homeland they loved, where they had lived for generations to a hot, dusty, primitive city where they didn't know the language or customs, but knowing they were among the lucky ones who got away with their lives and at least some of their possessions and assets.</div>
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Getting ready for an overnight guest and candles are in 15 minutes.</div>
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Shabbat shalom from Jerusalem,</div>
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Peggy and Sid</div>
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Peg and Sidhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13785932543768697067noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7940580187060778966.post-54533805283817681282019-11-29T05:11:00.000-08:002019-11-29T05:11:20.621-08:00Giving Thanks<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I'm often asked about Thanksgiving in Israel. Do people know what it is? Is it celebrated? Can you get turkey? Cranberry sauce? Pumpkin pie?</div>
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One thing is for sure. Israelis might not know about Thanksgiving, but they know about Black Friday. It's caught on here, without the insanity of stores being open for 24 hours starting at midnight or whatever the shopping hours are. When I explain to Israelis what Black Friday in the U.S. is like they are incredulous. Who waits in line for hours just to get a TV at a bargain price? Who shops at 3AM? Who fights over the last microwave? Because Shabbat starts at 4PM, Black Friday extends at least until Sunday and possible longer. </div>
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Thanksgiving, being the consummate American holiday, is celebrated by most Americans here. Traditionalists celebrate on Thursday, but a lot of people move the menu to Friday, celebrating both Shabbat and Thanksgiving with one meal. One of the hotels in Jerusalem has been putting on a big spread with all the traditional food for decades. I went once with an American friend when I lived here. Back then the food wasn't anywhere near the quality that it is today. I don't remember how good the dinner was; what I do remember is that it was a big splurge for a taste of home. </div>
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On a per capita basis, Israelis are the biggest consumers of turkey in the world. But the idea of a whole turkey is a foreign concept. Back in the day, no one had an oven large enough to accommodate a whole turkey. Now it's a matter of who makes a whole turkey? Even in religious homes with large families, people make half turkeys or parts. So how is it that Israelis manage to eat so much? Shwarma (similar to gyros), schnitzel and smoked. </div>
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Since we've been coming to Israel for an extended stay, we've celebrated Thanksgiving here 3 times. The first time was during our first visit in 2013 when the apartment we rented didn't have an oven at all, and only a 2-burner cooktop. I made a half turkey in a toaster oven. My fear was that it would burn on the outside and be raw on the inside. Fortunately it came out fine. 2013 was also the year that Hanukkah and Thanksgiving coincided, a confluence that won't take place for another 10,000 years. Literally. When I mentioned this to the butcher he looked at me with a blank stare, waiting for me to make the point. So to answer the first question above, not everyone knows what Thanksgiving is. Interestingly, in subsequent Thanksgiving years, when I tell the butcher I'm going to need something in November he says yes, a whole turkey. </div>
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Cranberries and pumpkin are another matter. Pumpkin is grown here and used extensively in soups, couscous and stews. But pies are another matter. Pie is almost unknown, in spite of the American influence over food (peanut butter is very popular and locally manufactured) and the number of similar foods such as samosas and bourekas which come from a variety of food traditions. Cranberries can't be grown here but they are available in dried form. I'm not sure if soaking dried cranberries and attempting to make them into something approaching the cranberry sauce we're used to would work. Word on the street is that there's a store in one of the more Anglo neighborhoods that has all kinds of vital American canned goods. Two years ago one of our guests managed to find cranberries. This time I wasn't taking chances so I brought a can from home, but I wasn't going to try making a pumpkin pie because I don't know how it would work with the local parve cream. </div>
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Every Thanksgiving has been different. Last night there were 6 of us. Two old friends, one new friend and a total stranger. Lots of food, laughs, stories and gratitude. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjib94dESDl2foDg7BWMTK7-zPQq5CGPJvzW6E8poqL9w9D6TkELPw291SCCuq53EX0SOyNwpbHSJrbc-XcHk3b3D-xx7vcv1Uv2-kzJ9dxSHdh5rh8Zp2Jn5oU0TL2DWUJMEie87xlAMef/s1600/20191128_093126.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjib94dESDl2foDg7BWMTK7-zPQq5CGPJvzW6E8poqL9w9D6TkELPw291SCCuq53EX0SOyNwpbHSJrbc-XcHk3b3D-xx7vcv1Uv2-kzJ9dxSHdh5rh8Zp2Jn5oU0TL2DWUJMEie87xlAMef/s200/20191128_093126.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">When you don't have a rolling pin you just have to improvise</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiT4iXsqUxdBq6RPWFBFUQkpi48HQbTPDp6UNANJhFnVjzcJotAPmTdLI9ZRhYYcBDKYsY2j7dxYKBqr9qGIKZl-nLWgtbZ2HhZAY6UNrN5ON8QJTNAkxZKBqVBFXtkkxHMZH9KrIeqEWr6/s1600/20191128_135902.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiT4iXsqUxdBq6RPWFBFUQkpi48HQbTPDp6UNANJhFnVjzcJotAPmTdLI9ZRhYYcBDKYsY2j7dxYKBqr9qGIKZl-nLWgtbZ2HhZAY6UNrN5ON8QJTNAkxZKBqVBFXtkkxHMZH9KrIeqEWr6/s200/20191128_135902.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It's a good size kitchen<br /><br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzEusi5bHH5paq3YSKq_ffzWj55qTax25RsWNvL1oTq675kVEswRr76XvPtNBN48CzIJgUTG7Z6sHIL-9KKQ_uxSsfJDKhLI_DKZRMzLT7xgctPupe-H9BIiqemMp4kXMTvXHHzK0GK-mL/s1600/20191128_164611.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzEusi5bHH5paq3YSKq_ffzWj55qTax25RsWNvL1oTq675kVEswRr76XvPtNBN48CzIJgUTG7Z6sHIL-9KKQ_uxSsfJDKhLI_DKZRMzLT7xgctPupe-H9BIiqemMp4kXMTvXHHzK0GK-mL/s200/20191128_164611.jpg" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Thinking ahead I brought a can of cranberries. It got mangled by baggage handling. <br />Think about this the next time you check luggage.<br /><br /><br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC9DyTDhhEE2fxfswsmRdoJwSW2J5EhcCP-hGg3Qz1X01HhR2u2HwI1Sie8_79xi-KldFbvIVG9dtJUXROV1WxTI3pyObhcZtSGEEcrTMsFv18_fvfXMnP_XlU4mDbwcIOFYK-XNNcxrZH/s1600/20191128_165305.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC9DyTDhhEE2fxfswsmRdoJwSW2J5EhcCP-hGg3Qz1X01HhR2u2HwI1Sie8_79xi-KldFbvIVG9dtJUXROV1WxTI3pyObhcZtSGEEcrTMsFv18_fvfXMnP_XlU4mDbwcIOFYK-XNNcxrZH/s200/20191128_165305.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This was a 7 kilo bird. It cooked in 2 hours. Nothing like fresh turkey.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigJq4rGZKYc-huwq2gZ_OG0idTh-r88su6StWvuZGjM21mbGBjq6JulRu8Cfu8YEGOHJiOkZrdAaDKpc2eZevcF2RIy2qt_HTNg2ff2ulyOUDwPQ26ltQQfi3SWJqPS-OxOKMAuz-yi3q1/s1600/20191128_190539.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigJq4rGZKYc-huwq2gZ_OG0idTh-r88su6StWvuZGjM21mbGBjq6JulRu8Cfu8YEGOHJiOkZrdAaDKpc2eZevcF2RIy2qt_HTNg2ff2ulyOUDwPQ26ltQQfi3SWJqPS-OxOKMAuz-yi3q1/s200/20191128_190539.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Moshe, who is shorter than I am, attempted a table shot.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGFMH67otbYc6Eg7qh3RiW7cGIobLThcGZz96-yO-bqnbOxwSte_ksrwnTwr9Jo6_XwkhbtwJTlWVg8jg40ZFU61dKxz4JjarFW019O_bsMcDlyHO7f5Qk598ykesWT4udKBqoMP60rtr9/s1600/20191128_190718.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGFMH67otbYc6Eg7qh3RiW7cGIobLThcGZz96-yO-bqnbOxwSte_ksrwnTwr9Jo6_XwkhbtwJTlWVg8jg40ZFU61dKxz4JjarFW019O_bsMcDlyHO7f5Qk598ykesWT4udKBqoMP60rtr9/s200/20191128_190718.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Shefa, Moshe, Sid</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrizQnG-vRxlYcvpNLFPLXVeKrDN4z5rY26dS0F0j8x0-3WQ4Lxylx9TlRFz1T8q-ae2IgMYPMJRWe3xOiH9r1Xu6xAzOUOxanK-42LWSqoJRgmPgZ8y1A2kSmTkkPAYp_W8sL0Nk2WDRy/s1600/20191128_190723.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrizQnG-vRxlYcvpNLFPLXVeKrDN4z5rY26dS0F0j8x0-3WQ4Lxylx9TlRFz1T8q-ae2IgMYPMJRWe3xOiH9r1Xu6xAzOUOxanK-42LWSqoJRgmPgZ8y1A2kSmTkkPAYp_W8sL0Nk2WDRy/s200/20191128_190723.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Shira and Nechlia<br /><br /><br /><br /></td></tr>
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Hope your Thanksgiving was as nice and memorable as ours was.</div>
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Shabbat Shalom from Jerusalem,</div>
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Peg and Sidhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13785932543768697067noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7940580187060778966.post-65964488658406120962019-11-22T05:11:00.001-08:002019-11-22T05:11:22.482-08:00You're in the army now ...<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Unlike the US (and probably most countries) that has separate military branches, Israel has one army with 3 sectors: the "regular" army (infantry, armor, paratroops, intelligence, special forces etc), the navy and the air force.</div>
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The highlight of last week was watching our grandson Nir being inducted into the air force following 3 months of basic training. The ceremony took place at the Kotel; there can be no better place. We had the best seats in the house. There's an event space on the second floor above the Kotel plaza and Yafit, who heads the parents' group for Nir's section, reserved it for a party. There's always a party.</div>
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We got to the Kotel early and watched the rehearsal, then went upstairs. It was very emotional, watching these 18 year old kids and hearing them take their oath with the Kotel in the background. Something else that is unique in Israel. When they are sworn in they get both a rifle (M16) and a Tanach. The message is clear: this is what you're fighting for and this is what you're fighting with.</div>
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This story is best told in pictures:</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Getting ready</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguZ_giKyEe7BozVtBzFax3UO09O1iMzz8hc7-qNKuXmWmCR-tTasK2er_YqD4PSaTjWHX2-xWyEoCiLH_27Y9gd9RdSMNJzD2NQMizt99H22SrSnwMBDDCB1njN6BqTEuuRoLWvkZ0GXxe/s1600/20191113_183844.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="112" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguZ_giKyEe7BozVtBzFax3UO09O1iMzz8hc7-qNKuXmWmCR-tTasK2er_YqD4PSaTjWHX2-xWyEoCiLH_27Y9gd9RdSMNJzD2NQMizt99H22SrSnwMBDDCB1njN6BqTEuuRoLWvkZ0GXxe/s200/20191113_183844.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Places, everyone, places!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrlG1g3JFE6kkoJWBzAX_xucH8qqBnZPyGRLyu9hYrCYXRHmm37k8aB2RQiJnIxINBjp4MpgFYnT8UocYb1iZbdkXAu9gRAp5X8Fq8mTVlMzFEyvaPyZqAz17M4NCOYu9DWGr7hYdgUg6L/s1600/20191113_174726.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="112" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrlG1g3JFE6kkoJWBzAX_xucH8qqBnZPyGRLyu9hYrCYXRHmm37k8aB2RQiJnIxINBjp4MpgFYnT8UocYb1iZbdkXAu9gRAp5X8Fq8mTVlMzFEyvaPyZqAz17M4NCOYu9DWGr7hYdgUg6L/s200/20191113_174726.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The sign says "Combat Soldiers Induction"</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxH8_pANYHPrcqmJZGRMPlNMLXy34XmG63mWUFqFt1gno_uycmBRN5cvQe_X4qW2iUbZ8el0jg-xjUyXk2VfvZad4AhV9nQ_VKh5JoON4Xa7sUvZPsBjsCGwDXlTfZm4uGkI_nvGnDEhry/s1600/20191113_190212.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxH8_pANYHPrcqmJZGRMPlNMLXy34XmG63mWUFqFt1gno_uycmBRN5cvQe_X4qW2iUbZ8el0jg-xjUyXk2VfvZad4AhV9nQ_VKh5JoON4Xa7sUvZPsBjsCGwDXlTfZm4uGkI_nvGnDEhry/s200/20191113_190212.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Everyone is where they're supposed to be</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRfwALP6q7GFEVBnZXQqg6iovJXGeIDG9CKV0UIf_7Wk6uSyp3Mm6GFIYvO76kc1HC_ja_Uq2rXOe4uWAaX-LMQTJ5rBIBBeo1veVUKIqqEdOhZ4-hfPnkcpLxX81dnO1hi-phYNm8T9b-/s1600/20191113_175203.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRfwALP6q7GFEVBnZXQqg6iovJXGeIDG9CKV0UIf_7Wk6uSyp3Mm6GFIYvO76kc1HC_ja_Uq2rXOe4uWAaX-LMQTJ5rBIBBeo1veVUKIqqEdOhZ4-hfPnkcpLxX81dnO1hi-phYNm8T9b-/s200/20191113_175203.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz5eOPi1wMUDMhUzgdMm15YGDNEUjIR0F4nhkvkfSoU4JRIIlIPo2M5zho4vvHwNHKIV5Mpstk2jGFLko_IZvI98lKR6-QHVclAvkIHxuB-aeIbitZqNIdhA1Auop58kvFA9plOel12s7V/s1600/20191113_181417.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="112" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz5eOPi1wMUDMhUzgdMm15YGDNEUjIR0F4nhkvkfSoU4JRIIlIPo2M5zho4vvHwNHKIV5Mpstk2jGFLko_IZvI98lKR6-QHVclAvkIHxuB-aeIbitZqNIdhA1Auop58kvFA9plOel12s7V/s200/20191113_181417.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">What's a party without friends and family?<br /><br /><br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgq6HKSip2L0Ks_ZetaBhDc2f7wPKJn2e_LiCrwAFJiLrax9yckcZqwATCn-AMiT4NDvJwfOcambl8mYnjF1lnaWevf-3PCSL_I_kREHB_NTkFERY_FKXVOcJKso-mwW-7KZswP2G-rD_Tp/s1600/20191113_195720.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgq6HKSip2L0Ks_ZetaBhDc2f7wPKJn2e_LiCrwAFJiLrax9yckcZqwATCn-AMiT4NDvJwfOcambl8mYnjF1lnaWevf-3PCSL_I_kREHB_NTkFERY_FKXVOcJKso-mwW-7KZswP2G-rD_Tp/s200/20191113_195720.jpg" width="112" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Who doesn't look good in uniform?</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMOh2sFKR3_L9pT93p85chNo3YNFVQR8OjHhCpnXcoIO5Zy_hppd_abVyjEORh9lHj-O6End5F47KJJOBpu6nwHsKK7-zEjHyBQREK3G05a11JCF1FiyCyojhqSccCOki6Wjr7aQ8bklg_/s1600/20191113_195558.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="112" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMOh2sFKR3_L9pT93p85chNo3YNFVQR8OjHhCpnXcoIO5Zy_hppd_abVyjEORh9lHj-O6End5F47KJJOBpu6nwHsKK7-zEjHyBQREK3G05a11JCF1FiyCyojhqSccCOki6Wjr7aQ8bklg_/s200/20191113_195558.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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Nir wasn't the only one to go into the army. Sid started his two-week stint in Sar-el on Sunday. I wanted to check out the train from Jerusalem to the airport which is where the group assembled. The ride was quick (20 minutes) and on time. Most of the the route goes through a series of tunnels, which is why it took so long to build. Blasting through bedrock takes time. He was assigned to the same base where he's been serving for the past 7 years, packing medical supplies. He's home for Shabbat, which starts in an hour.</div>
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More next week.</div>
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Shabbat Shalom from Jerusalem,</div>
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Peggy and Sid</div>
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<br />Peg and Sidhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13785932543768697067noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7940580187060778966.post-92053049472845184232019-11-15T05:50:00.001-08:002019-11-15T05:50:12.246-08:00Something New<br />
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We did a couple of things this week that were new, proving that no matter how much time you spend in Jerusalem there are always new things to discover.</div>
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On Sunday we went to Ammunition Hill, scene of one of the toughest battles of the Six Day War. Bill, Jane and Sid insisted that the 4 of us went there on a previous visit (23 years ago), but I have zero recall. Whether I was there or not, the site has been completely redone so it was new for all of us.</div>
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I've said this before and I'll say it again: no one does museums like the Israelis. First there is a film using original footage of the Six Day Way, particularly the 2-1/2 day battle for Jerusalem, and interviews with soldiers who participated. Then we went to the exhibit itself, which was very hard to find because the signage was terrible, also very Israeli. It's a self guided tour with automated commentary. No buttons to push; the sound starts and stops as you go through. The narration puts you right into the battles, with original sound tracks recorded during the fighting, as well as background interviews and descriptions. They got the fog of war exactly right, by using gauze over original films and sketches and drawings that morphed according to what was being described. </div>
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When we arrived at the museum there were several groups of soldiers. What struck me immediately was that none of them had ranks. At first I thought they were in basic training, but when one of the soldiers, a paratrooper, struck up a conversation and I saw his wings, I knew these weren't recruits. So I asked who they were and what they were doing at the museum. He told me they come from all branches of the army and are training to be medics. The army is big on taking soldiers on tours, and you see groups all over the place all the time. It reinforces patriotism; you have to know what you're fighting for. And in the case of these future medics you need to understand what combat is all about, something this museum does very well. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib7yu8Bo7hNROYiYRtq8w5eRtwCU-JC25sZfaLH1OdogwiKUqB1V80imjAzMlrGgirlS4XYaKtcQIgO8JayKG-6Ef3ES88oWodEzEGAtIfvdh8QHDdPQxr7kjhPSoHZj-Th3SN_4ah2Oho/s1600/20191110_153623.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="112" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib7yu8Bo7hNROYiYRtq8w5eRtwCU-JC25sZfaLH1OdogwiKUqB1V80imjAzMlrGgirlS4XYaKtcQIgO8JayKG-6Ef3ES88oWodEzEGAtIfvdh8QHDdPQxr7kjhPSoHZj-Th3SN_4ah2Oho/s200/20191110_153623.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Some of the soldiers waiting for their tour to begin</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg44zGGZVnsV7L1HT0PAYH-oVxpXn6aJhn7lSijSeeEWBlLK2rbhBSJHoLGOeSZDSM-zTS6mNHKxUwt0X_9-bPKXgkNtgnClHBK4VqsPkkGgf2HgKQX-gACFRt8Kdd5MKoTVy7mTEnWMQFl/s1600/20191110_152438.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="112" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg44zGGZVnsV7L1HT0PAYH-oVxpXn6aJhn7lSijSeeEWBlLK2rbhBSJHoLGOeSZDSM-zTS6mNHKxUwt0X_9-bPKXgkNtgnClHBK4VqsPkkGgf2HgKQX-gACFRt8Kdd5MKoTVy7mTEnWMQFl/s200/20191110_152438.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A platoon under an olive tree</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqDEeMViWXjKZbbzy7ZpBfZKZ5OtwA4GPuhmzsk-Wk_iFUi-RNQEaznzlQCyFptrRLhif5yo89g1goZaEtxdCLv8xKqpgOa8Ry90oCk8jNjHf-p6CL0Ky4SA8EpXjlaIJkVhJz0pR85zHp/s1600/20191110_153431.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="112" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqDEeMViWXjKZbbzy7ZpBfZKZ5OtwA4GPuhmzsk-Wk_iFUi-RNQEaznzlQCyFptrRLhif5yo89g1goZaEtxdCLv8xKqpgOa8Ry90oCk8jNjHf-p6CL0Ky4SA8EpXjlaIJkVhJz0pR85zHp/s200/20191110_153431.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Soldiers are like interns. They take cat naps wherever and whenever they can.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFy4a_T_-UjTJcAISCyQsdqsChbZ6MNNoPCC0DAV2bFI1ftgkXGnHSV7WiC0WUsSggG4qvmLME-io8thj6ifJiuEknJyqcWe1B07rRs7k2h2U7YV5sxtFMaJBEakxfV-2Ixp986cKFfciB/s1600/20191110_154251.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="112" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFy4a_T_-UjTJcAISCyQsdqsChbZ6MNNoPCC0DAV2bFI1ftgkXGnHSV7WiC0WUsSggG4qvmLME-io8thj6ifJiuEknJyqcWe1B07rRs7k2h2U7YV5sxtFMaJBEakxfV-2Ixp986cKFfciB/s200/20191110_154251.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sid, Tamar, me, Bill, Jane having another small world encounter. Tamar, a docent at the museum, lived in Chicago for a year and worked at Akiba Schechter Day School with our daughter Jessica.</td></tr>
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On Monday we did something I've been wanting to do for years. We went to a couple of wineries in the Judean Hills. The reason I've put it off is because I won't drink and drive, and you can't get to wineries on the bus. Two couple friends of Bill and Jane's happen to be in Israel now, and they are wine aficionados. They arranged for a van and driver to take us to two wonderful wineries and was it ever an education.</div>
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Once upon a time if anyone offered a glass of Israeli wine you would say no thanks. It was like that with food as well. That was then. In the past 30 or so years both food and wine have come a very long way and Israel is considered a foodie destination. Uri Buri in Akko was voted one of the top 25 in the world by TripAdvisor (so take it with many grains of salt). Even more impressive, Israel has 13 restaurants on La Liste, which can actually be taken seriously. It ranks # 21 out of 64 countries, putting it in the top third. </div>
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The Judean Hills are an ideal place to grow wine, as it was during Biblical times according to the sources. Twenty years ago there were only 30 wineries in the Judean Hills. Today there are 400 and counting. Fun fact: there are more words in Hebrew for anything associated with wine than in any other language. The vintners are taking steps to become a terroir (an identifiable geographic location whose soil, sunshine and climate have an effect on the taste of the finished produce) and appellation (the place of origin). The last time Israel had an appellation was in the 1950's for Jaffa oranges. This should take some of the guesswork out of the EU's campaign to blackball Israeli wines by labeling them as products of the so-called "west bank" as they just voted to do.<br />
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The first winery was Nevo, named for the owner, located on Moshav Matta. It's really a boutique, not like some wineries that call themselves boutique. They opened in 2002 and produce 12,000 bottles a year, mostly reds. Everything is done by hand (including harvesting the grapes at night) and under Nevo's strict supervision. We tasted a Merlot and a Cabernet, both 2017, both excellent. They only sell direct to the public; you can't find them in hotels, restaurants or stores. For wine connoisseurs (and you know who you are) the website is nevowinery.com.<br />
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The tasting was accompanied by bread which had been baked in a wood stove at the winery, olive oil which they also produce, and cheese from a boutique cheesery in the Negev. The name of the cheesery is Mashkochit, which is the word for the lead sheep or goat in a herd who wears a bell. And I thought German was precise.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmzaNdZ4e2Gii2AD5V4cBZIYidAwwi7eAhU-X9EbjrpblPblQQj8WoTxTTs7K901sK56-wXR99QCAeyI-zx6QleALXL6yOyH0IbRGsvu8CtQFBKeQ2UMkd35ILFG8VLK6QS7VK3JByX2Ch/s1600/20191111_104527.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmzaNdZ4e2Gii2AD5V4cBZIYidAwwi7eAhU-X9EbjrpblPblQQj8WoTxTTs7K901sK56-wXR99QCAeyI-zx6QleALXL6yOyH0IbRGsvu8CtQFBKeQ2UMkd35ILFG8VLK6QS7VK3JByX2Ch/s200/20191111_104527.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The 8 of us with Nevo, before the tasting. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjj5PEljFxIZy47yqBlvee8-riuSRB2zSDBCdWnJa1x4GWKD5_PFq8Xnhm402lB6eKlGbIDbTPYU47exv29Z0MQE_HOfLJe_X-2vHxEmo6vq3RvV3fYLeC2RzpR5FAlKzUYniye1kniafZ0/s1600/20191111_104714.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjj5PEljFxIZy47yqBlvee8-riuSRB2zSDBCdWnJa1x4GWKD5_PFq8Xnhm402lB6eKlGbIDbTPYU47exv29Z0MQE_HOfLJe_X-2vHxEmo6vq3RvV3fYLeC2RzpR5FAlKzUYniye1kniafZ0/s200/20191111_104714.jpg" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nevo, the owner</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY2BrxpIJwOBXvfiUTJd_8JDaYMyXdumXZOWIHM2RH9aaQMl-hAkWETWJJXmmThfW2B7f3U5AKTPH2360RcL4iHRl-1rXZ9q3mQdKJUiZuqoXYJlm_q_RFzm4HMOSXL0eTDgNLD_MXWXFU/s1600/20191111_111722.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY2BrxpIJwOBXvfiUTJd_8JDaYMyXdumXZOWIHM2RH9aaQMl-hAkWETWJJXmmThfW2B7f3U5AKTPH2360RcL4iHRl-1rXZ9q3mQdKJUiZuqoXYJlm_q_RFzm4HMOSXL0eTDgNLD_MXWXFU/s200/20191111_111722.jpg" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sharon, who led the tasting. She's a walking encyclopedia of wine and wine making</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaV9ZyOoHXRNkS363AT0T3d-vMQ2ccq2Yb9KXfe8Cmqam3Or-CMiJv4Pwkj-bYkRZVP2NgOf211md666qniqBM55pvmyMyb8_PwnHjnvpkqsLsY0Yh3RNaoO_C2k6Arh3tINqnRON_lxnP/s1600/20191111_111744.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaV9ZyOoHXRNkS363AT0T3d-vMQ2ccq2Yb9KXfe8Cmqam3Or-CMiJv4Pwkj-bYkRZVP2NgOf211md666qniqBM55pvmyMyb8_PwnHjnvpkqsLsY0Yh3RNaoO_C2k6Arh3tINqnRON_lxnP/s200/20191111_111744.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We had a whole course on wine before they poured the first bottle</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUlntQalLJfWlSayXpOHCEluzP7jm9MiyM_mM5WP2TTk89YJhiX_xlHL1RisK3hhi8Geo9oFAGPNThopy7cifqB5OifDLDx77nt4-iaVVRny4oT76q9QWSX65WbHHntkpU9YPd-6LUhEUH/s1600/20191111_111143.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUlntQalLJfWlSayXpOHCEluzP7jm9MiyM_mM5WP2TTk89YJhiX_xlHL1RisK3hhi8Geo9oFAGPNThopy7cifqB5OifDLDx77nt4-iaVVRny4oT76q9QWSX65WbHHntkpU9YPd-6LUhEUH/s200/20191111_111143.jpg" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Cabernet and Merlot we bought</td></tr>
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From Nevo we continued to Flam. They are a much larger capacity winery, producing 170,000 bottles a year, 70% of which are exported. Although far from a boutique, they are family owned and operated. We tasted a 2017 Classico Red (many of their wines are blends), a 2017 Reserve Cabernet, a 2017 Reserve Syrah (a wine that gets way too little attention in my opinion), a 2018 Blanc and a 2018 Rose. There was of course bread, cheese and olive oil to accompany the wines.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKWgYHw2SGae-afAQOXcUFoZruOCRbxxr2GdDR00fz1TkcwYSjCPnozFkO4P0a0A5RGOGjiHGzBrRRc9CBDqF3jGHiooWx3To18-Gs3dq0g4uYzfFjpCp4-4GKFr9r5Sa4zXgW1nj_3jZ5/s1600/20191111_130857.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKWgYHw2SGae-afAQOXcUFoZruOCRbxxr2GdDR00fz1TkcwYSjCPnozFkO4P0a0A5RGOGjiHGzBrRRc9CBDqF3jGHiooWx3To18-Gs3dq0g4uYzfFjpCp4-4GKFr9r5Sa4zXgW1nj_3jZ5/s200/20191111_130857.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Golan Flam, one of the brothers who operate the winery. </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tamar, who led the tasting</td></tr>
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The week continued to be busy, with enough material to carry over to my next post. Shabbat starts early in Jerusalem at 405PM, and it's getting close to that now.<br />
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Shabbat shalom from Jerusalem,<br />
Peggy and Sid</div>
Peg and Sidhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13785932543768697067noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7940580187060778966.post-62457332181842610012019-11-08T06:50:00.000-08:002019-11-08T06:50:00.799-08:00Visitors' week 1<div style="text-align: justify;">
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We're making up for lost time. It was a very busy week.</div>
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Last Friday our friends Bill and Jane Behrmann arrived from Washington. Friday is not a day anyone should land in Israel. The airport was a zoo and they couldn't get a sherut (shared ride) to Jerusalem. They wound up sharing a taxi, and split the 400 shekel cost. A sherut would have been 65 shekels each, which is why everyone wants to take one. We also had Linda and Craig Smith, who were at the tail end of their first trip to Jordan and Israel, join us for dinner. </div>
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I enjoy cooking here. It's a challenge figuring out how to compensate for not having a cuisinart, immersion blender and whisk. Or a decent knife. It's amazing what can be done with a less than fully equipped kitchen.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieUEnKfnUmKk7dxfZeOhfQTNTgH_mnBh-YwJSTl6b69AWfHpGxrjMgRLqzOXJXyTJ1CDR0iOYFjmasGSZRoBWX_fSBanXafTnXsss_drZn96I1g1dKsHdxIRYCyeujw-UkRe8Q8xUt9WO3/s1600/20191101_161738.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieUEnKfnUmKk7dxfZeOhfQTNTgH_mnBh-YwJSTl6b69AWfHpGxrjMgRLqzOXJXyTJ1CDR0iOYFjmasGSZRoBWX_fSBanXafTnXsss_drZn96I1g1dKsHdxIRYCyeujw-UkRe8Q8xUt9WO3/s200/20191101_161738.jpg" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Table set for Shabbat dinner</td></tr>
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I walked over to the King David to pick up Linda and Craig, and we had a lovely walk back. Friday night in Jerusalem is unique. This might be the only city in the world where a siren goes off 40 minutes before sundown to alert people that it's time to light candles. It's very peaceful, without traffic and street noise. On our walk back to the apartment they were amazed at how quiet the city is, especially since they spent the previous Shabbat in Tel Aviv, which doesn't stop for anything. </div>
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I wasn't sure how long Bill and Jane would last, having travelled for 24 hours, but the 6 of us had such a good time we paid no attention to the clock. And there was lots to talk about, especially since Linda grew up a block from where Bill's father had lived. The world keeps getting smaller. It was 1130PM when we realized how late it was. Jane was a trooper; she came along when we walked Linda and Craig back to the King David.<br />
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Everyone slept in Saturday morning, but we went for a nice walk in the afternoon. The weather continues to be gorgeous. As often as I say we need the rain, I'm far from complaining about the beautiful weather. It's 80 as I write this. Saturday night we met at the Rimon to celebrate Eli's birthday.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmjTKtCGIqma1_X9tuBhhqxtP0vDoZ_Z1vR7wpyd-mJTemDnx4KYGQ8-8Oc9hBpkdrTS5yF9KRTxcUnyNGKh-EWlTaOcJeGZQ6hI3Lb_Pq2rogPDrY5ywe_iQ87fwahPs4-jX9IIQ2ksCQ/s1600/20191102_205210.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmjTKtCGIqma1_X9tuBhhqxtP0vDoZ_Z1vR7wpyd-mJTemDnx4KYGQ8-8Oc9hBpkdrTS5yF9KRTxcUnyNGKh-EWlTaOcJeGZQ6hI3Lb_Pq2rogPDrY5ywe_iQ87fwahPs4-jX9IIQ2ksCQ/s200/20191102_205210.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Batsheva and Eli</td></tr>
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Bill brought a long list of places they want to visit. A brief summary of this week: Israel Museum, Bible Lands Museum, City of David, the Shuk, Ben Yehuda, and the Mount Herzl cemetery.<br />
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Mount Herzl, which we've all been to, is the national cemetery of Israel. In addition to Theodore Herzl, many of the founding fathers and prime ministers are there. It's also a military cemetery, with sections for fallen soldiers from all of Israel's wars. It's a very large cemetery, with clearly marked sections, so you'd think there would be a directory of graves. But no.<br />
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We went there on Sunday in search of Esther Callingold's grave. Esther was an idealistic young (20 years old) Zionist who came to what was then British Mandatory Palestine. She died in the 1948 War of Independence. Her legacy to the world was a letter she had written to her parents back in England, telling them not to mourn if she didn't survive the war because she was doing something she passionately believed in. It's a story that's hardly known unless you've read O Jerusalem, but one that shouldn't be a footnote of history. She represents many idealistic Zionists of all ages and origins who came here to make the dream of a Jewish state a reality. We didn't find her grave, but the search was very meaningful. Grave stones in Israel aren't the stand-up headstones we're used to. They lie flat on the grave, and they have very simple inscriptions: Name, date and place of birth, date and circumstances of death. What stands out is how young most of them were and how many different countries they came from.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVz-1jpdiM71oOLFVqSg4l9yETvJPYKnYHL5GwDH3xAVZ8lViKVIUdSK7Q-Sw_kJ7zZFISAKBOmaHEbjrykG3hURF5Sj-xCrFPEr0mFFhFhtfy_fduUL0JMy1McgERzd_Gc3pgLEDf_Ppi/s1600/20191103_131659.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="112" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVz-1jpdiM71oOLFVqSg4l9yETvJPYKnYHL5GwDH3xAVZ8lViKVIUdSK7Q-Sw_kJ7zZFISAKBOmaHEbjrykG3hURF5Sj-xCrFPEr0mFFhFhtfy_fduUL0JMy1McgERzd_Gc3pgLEDf_Ppi/s200/20191103_131659.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fall colors at Mount Herzl</td></tr>
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Now that the academic year has started, it's tiyul (trip) season. Once a month Batsheva and I go on a tiyul lead by one of the professors at the open university. He's remarkable. A brilliant academic with the personality of a guide. His trips to even the most inconsequential places are fascinating. This trip was to a town called Pardes Hannah, kibbutz Ein Shemer and a guy who makes passion fruit liquor. I can't say I was overly excited about Pardes Hannah, other than their collection of Torah scrolls including one that survived Kristallnacht.<br />
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The kibbutz, on the other hand, was fascinating. This is the sort of kibbutz that tourists should visit if they want to know what kibbutzim are all about. It was founded by 15 people from Poland in 1925. Conditions were terrible. There was no water source; water had to be brought from Pardes Hannah by donkey or camel. There were swamps, snakes and malaria. But the founders were determined, and in spite of the fundamental changes that have taken place in the kibbutz movement over the past 40 years (the shift from children's houses and communal meals being the most striking), it's still thriving as an agricultural enterprise. They grow cotton, avocados and wheat and they have dairy herds. We toured the fields by tractor.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMg1BpBSE1DX28JCVoQbf2I73qR3TMsdDaLTeS0fEzBm1gN6lS8o1HzqUqCU_-qP0aCeRYRdxNUGzAmZInfyV3AtJFHXIhhizmi3NrNm5hMVMIBRNptOmRS8bmkA8K5Ng_b_gWEhsG2XEO/s1600/20191104_130857.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMg1BpBSE1DX28JCVoQbf2I73qR3TMsdDaLTeS0fEzBm1gN6lS8o1HzqUqCU_-qP0aCeRYRdxNUGzAmZInfyV3AtJFHXIhhizmi3NrNm5hMVMIBRNptOmRS8bmkA8K5Ng_b_gWEhsG2XEO/s200/20191104_130857.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The original gate, still the main entrance to the kibbutz</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One of the original buildings</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWTj6WKckY-9f7ZcqJy3HkoVBI7bExH-o3JgvgjGj_pNAr8qTEABQO60SpiMedtW3kO88KTlUJsmFi53nk4Kem3WIdd5Zn9ijeekzMhak839C0ox8a_gKIDiZWHPlVkHO9XjPXiYjoqSVo/s1600/20191104_131754.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWTj6WKckY-9f7ZcqJy3HkoVBI7bExH-o3JgvgjGj_pNAr8qTEABQO60SpiMedtW3kO88KTlUJsmFi53nk4Kem3WIdd5Zn9ijeekzMhak839C0ox8a_gKIDiZWHPlVkHO9XjPXiYjoqSVo/s200/20191104_131754.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gideon, a kibbutz member, with photos and a model of the kibbutz in 1925</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwKItxktsqVlnQHCAk4wXoZjr3goXmsYjhZiusvcmYCAjmxeq-n2A7yOtbrsT9Rp_zfENj7FHhY_LIfp9vD6TGlXrBaJvFix51nLl9UT2-2nqswcrs1yPf2l7d1BJ39F9dQtuzPf0_8pq3/s1600/20191104_132446.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwKItxktsqVlnQHCAk4wXoZjr3goXmsYjhZiusvcmYCAjmxeq-n2A7yOtbrsT9Rp_zfENj7FHhY_LIfp9vD6TGlXrBaJvFix51nLl9UT2-2nqswcrs1yPf2l7d1BJ39F9dQtuzPf0_8pq3/s200/20191104_132446.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The main building where everything took place. It was the dining room, meeting room and office.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheG6UBj43Fp7V-FpqFsqGQQRn2dkf8z3GuEN7RjnBk78e_rEOVz3ti0pq3x6Nb3Iim9a5apl5XjdREHVy9C0zsKNebneyHvIIE4EVwnZ0cq4RjwSmIuF78ZdPuATpnSkxkPJpGNdw7WUXg/s1600/20191104_142737.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheG6UBj43Fp7V-FpqFsqGQQRn2dkf8z3GuEN7RjnBk78e_rEOVz3ti0pq3x6Nb3Iim9a5apl5XjdREHVy9C0zsKNebneyHvIIE4EVwnZ0cq4RjwSmIuF78ZdPuATpnSkxkPJpGNdw7WUXg/s200/20191104_142737.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dairy cattle. Happily they are free to roam about. Not a tether in sight and no force feeding.</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgi1vIOexc5QZHmTvniixndoGIVdZjJ4jRPj4_-P_xwjQxhYHR0EUUxMjoPvE4ouFsaQF5VPi9ZdWt7dxzY_8VnQr4NZUYmHQ_NdM6AkXdvmkVFGV9uyHreKBLnIsci25WXvCt2l0guld23/s1600/20191104_144422.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgi1vIOexc5QZHmTvniixndoGIVdZjJ4jRPj4_-P_xwjQxhYHR0EUUxMjoPvE4ouFsaQF5VPi9ZdWt7dxzY_8VnQr4NZUYmHQ_NdM6AkXdvmkVFGV9uyHreKBLnIsci25WXvCt2l0guld23/s200/20191104_144422.jpg" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The tractor tour.</td></tr>
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From the kibbutz we continued to meet the Passion Fruit Man. He has a computer and engineering background, not exactly what you'd expect for someone who makes booze. He inherited some land that had passion fruit vines and one fine day decided to try making brandy. After many trials and errors he came up with a formula and method and great results. Someone encouraged him to enter a wine contest in New York and he won double gold. I bought 4 bottles. The stuff is good.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9g05bB20TcoYmP65QwcQQo1VPlGh2gGJuk8GZFVa442QOY3MkseC3dX-2rgcCLYLeWoTdZLrogwcY1k2O6sTJjhMeWz11QuRzxg8rJesBDaGqSrfNFrLH14OBXVvncAhBo7OI4VgSrf9H/s1600/20191104_154015.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9g05bB20TcoYmP65QwcQQo1VPlGh2gGJuk8GZFVa442QOY3MkseC3dX-2rgcCLYLeWoTdZLrogwcY1k2O6sTJjhMeWz11QuRzxg8rJesBDaGqSrfNFrLH14OBXVvncAhBo7OI4VgSrf9H/s200/20191104_154015.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The flower</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-YMxg2Lx8QSEvVT39UF8PYxNNQ3Ay9ajjKwoPi4oPMI0b96HnM_VpFpH00jgqTn51J-LFBUVh69J2dx9w6EQADL4WMSwYfapbMPNy-dEp_ldHY9MifKPTUzO_MyoPlT6vIfyfAHK9kU4Q/s1600/20191104_153328.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-YMxg2Lx8QSEvVT39UF8PYxNNQ3Ay9ajjKwoPi4oPMI0b96HnM_VpFpH00jgqTn51J-LFBUVh69J2dx9w6EQADL4WMSwYfapbMPNy-dEp_ldHY9MifKPTUzO_MyoPlT6vIfyfAHK9kU4Q/s200/20191104_153328.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The fruit</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPewIzymBF7spMG74SPQyDxO20H7C4-YK6-FtGGNF4noeoiVammrDEO9J5oJ3m47nigU2hjWyawLmbSU3OM3UVwYIizO_04Rfxq3sSq8fhUHuP4wvpYrmWjo2FCyxuCo2YywC8e8rqd-Vg/s1600/20191104_153032.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPewIzymBF7spMG74SPQyDxO20H7C4-YK6-FtGGNF4noeoiVammrDEO9J5oJ3m47nigU2hjWyawLmbSU3OM3UVwYIizO_04Rfxq3sSq8fhUHuP4wvpYrmWjo2FCyxuCo2YywC8e8rqd-Vg/s200/20191104_153032.jpg" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The guy</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjK4lNnbGH0LHWzf6rq6142STLQkYG1ZNsFqQNrvHNUzMYzh6G61Ak5730MeSlh42j_4Por50PVfp96B3Ec55o1CUqIg3OqVAacbELYblnYplO9F3uJ3CdAyvr3NEq55bHJPZZS0TyzGVD2/s1600/20191104_154139.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjK4lNnbGH0LHWzf6rq6142STLQkYG1ZNsFqQNrvHNUzMYzh6G61Ak5730MeSlh42j_4Por50PVfp96B3Ec55o1CUqIg3OqVAacbELYblnYplO9F3uJ3CdAyvr3NEq55bHJPZZS0TyzGVD2/s200/20191104_154139.jpg" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The product</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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The siren has sounded and it's time to light candles.<br />
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Shabbat shalom from Jerusalem,<br />
Peggy and Sid</div>
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Peg and Sidhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13785932543768697067noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7940580187060778966.post-54248367209243982482019-11-01T07:55:00.003-07:002019-11-01T07:55:54.711-07:00Back to Normal<div style="text-align: justify;">
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The transition from 3 weeks of holidays to a regular schedule has its own jet lag. On the one hand, enough already. On the other hand, it's such a great time to be here, fully imbued.</div>
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Classes resumed and/or started. I decided to try out someplace I only read about recently: Matan. It's not too far away ... about a 20 minute walk. When you know what you're doing. As sophisticated as GPS systems are, they're no match for the streets in Jerusalem which are woefully unmarked. At some point I like to synchronize my GPS with an actual street sign. Much easier said than done. Matan is pretty much down one street, which changes names 4 or 5 times, but the GPS didn't send me straight there. I made several turns until I finally arrived at my destination, barely in time, and the auditorium was standing room only. I knew I picked a good class to go to by the crowd, and actually we sat on the stairs. The speaker was amazing. The subject is Bereshit, the first book of the Torah, and she has a breadth of understanding that goes way beyond anything I've yet been exposed to.</div>
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On the way to Matan I ran into my friend Susan who was walking her dog. We had texted and tried to find a time to get together, but between her schedule and my schedule, we haven't been able to make a date. We had a few minutes to chat and then she was off to do her thing and I was off to do mine.</div>
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I've said this a million times. One of the reasons I love this neighborhood is because we know people here and running into them is easy to do. </div>
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Speaking of running into ... we went to a lecture last night by a renowned Bible scholar who shall remain nameless because I was less than impressed. We'd never heard her speak, she has a stellar reputation, but I found her presentation disorganized, a little out in left field, and I had an issue with some of the theological points she was making. But, I did run into someone I studied with last summer at Pardes so it wasn't a total loss.</div>
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This will be short because Shabbat is about to start. We have house guests as well as dinner guests coming so I better start cooking!</div>
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Shabbat shalom from Jerusalem,</div>
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Peggy</div>
Peg and Sidhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13785932543768697067noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7940580187060778966.post-31763823673986396292019-10-25T04:22:00.000-07:002019-10-25T05:40:20.742-07:00For every thing there's a season<br />
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You can feel the season changing. </div>
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In addition to its religious significance, Sukkot is an agricultural holiday. The first harvests were brought to the Temple in Jerusalem, and in our daily prayers we switch from asking for dew to praying for rain. Israel today has no water shortage, the previous 6 year drought notwithstanding. There are several desalination plants that provide clean water for consumption and agriculture. In addition, Israel is the world leader in recycling waste water; 90% is reused, mostly for agricultural purposes. But not so long ago (about 20 years), plentiful rain was critical. It's always amazing to me that no matter when Sukkot falls on the Gregorian calendar, that's when the weather changes and the rainy season starts. Those few drops we had in Mitzpe Ramon fell during Sukkot, and scattered showers are forecast for tomorrow.</div>
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But it's more than that. There's a rhythm here that's connected to the holidays. It's still in the mid-70's during the day, but it takes longer to warm up in the morning and it cools off much more quickly as the sun sets. Think northern Wisconsin in August. We switch to winter time next weekend and the temperatures fall with the number of daylight hours. Culturally winter is a great time to be in Jerusalem. A series of festivals, music, dance, art, gastro and sound and light shows keep people out of hibernation. We go to as many as possible, starting with the Jerusalem Biennial which goes on till the end of November, when the Oud Festival begins.<br />
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We've been here 3 weeks, and it's a blur. On the one hand, we've been busy, between the holidays and my brother and sister in law's visit. On the other hand, I have been laid up with pneumonia, which has cramped our style. I, who NEVER get sick, got sick. The sinus thing I had when we left the US just wouldn't go away, and last week I developed a cough. I never ran a fever, but I knew what I had wasn't just a bad cold and began to suspect walking pneumonia. I was able to see a doctor who confirmed my diagnosis and dosed me up with 2 antibiotics and 2 meds for symptomatic relief. It's much better after a week of drugs, but it's taking more time than I thought to get back to my old self. I really don't know how to be sick, nor do I have the time. Classes start next week (after the holiday break), and we're getting ready for another set of visitors from the States. Bottom line is, one-third of our trip is over. It's going way too fast. Seasons change too soon and I'm not ready.<br />
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Shabbat shalom from Jerusalem,<br />
Peggy and Sid<br />
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Peg and Sidhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13785932543768697067noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7940580187060778966.post-6352162374218852042019-10-18T01:24:00.000-07:002019-10-24T23:09:58.453-07:00Holy Days and Holidays<br />
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It's been decades since I was in Jerusalem for Yom Kippur. It's different here than anywhere else on the planet. There's a quality to the day that makes it unique. First of all, everything shuts down. The airport is closed. The TV and radio stations don't broadcast. Newspapers aren't published. All stores, offices and schools are closed. And with very minor exceptions, there isn't a car on the roads. What you see on the streets is people walking to and from services. It makes focusing on the meaning and importance of the day a lot easier.</div>
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Five days later Sukkot begins. Again, here in Israel, the holiday is celebrated like no where else in the world. Even in the most secular areas there's a succa on every corner and outside most of the restaurants. Sukkot is a very festive holiday. Walk down the streets and you'll hear singing till the wee hours. Traffic comes to a standstill because there's a huge (5000+ participants) international Christian Zionist parade that takes place in Jerusalem on the same day that the President holds an open house for at least 10,000 visitors who traipse through his residence. I got caught in both traffic jams; it wasn't the best day to go and visit my bff Batsheva, who lives at the far northern end of the city.</div>
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Because lots of businesses and schools take the week off, it seems that everyone is on the move. Including us. Like all good Israelis, at least the ones who don't go abroad, we headed for Eilat and Mitzpe Ramon.</div>
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The last time we were in Eilat was 5 years ago. There's a boom in building and tourism. The foothills surrounding the city are dotted with low and high rise buildings that weren't there 5 years ago. The North Beach promenade is like Vegas without the casinos. Water sports (scuba, snorkling, paddle boards, windsurfing, parasailing and paragliding) cover the bay. We took a glass bottom boat tour. I didn't want to get wet.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwLFgPZiV1tM9T-DHv92KkkY_VTVCG5DzfMYzDBz3iVIwuMySZiuDy4Ex6RieW4F27urGkfAc_Yd6Z6bEBIMyaw-XIm1Nij6hCdNyw8ZWNQeLTFOskxT7b-6j6MQtNI6WrhK_zPFAJ0_pC/s1600/20191012_112016.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwLFgPZiV1tM9T-DHv92KkkY_VTVCG5DzfMYzDBz3iVIwuMySZiuDy4Ex6RieW4F27urGkfAc_Yd6Z6bEBIMyaw-XIm1Nij6hCdNyw8ZWNQeLTFOskxT7b-6j6MQtNI6WrhK_zPFAJ0_pC/s320/20191012_112016.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vegas style hotels on North Beach</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJdNL8zGFc_7sRk3OOh5bIC2e8BNqxXg-CE2pIK8SCNUrKsEEJ-zdeQJvkZon0R2vMZsMUZ4HQFr0ncYBYY_dKIb1vr4_ZukVRsRirlQeYZH8b4Hjsz2yzic8ijoXzhRcu_rV4nZL3tcoM/s1600/20191012_120855.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJdNL8zGFc_7sRk3OOh5bIC2e8BNqxXg-CE2pIK8SCNUrKsEEJ-zdeQJvkZon0R2vMZsMUZ4HQFr0ncYBYY_dKIb1vr4_ZukVRsRirlQeYZH8b4Hjsz2yzic8ijoXzhRcu_rV4nZL3tcoM/s320/20191012_120855.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wind sailing on the Red Sea; mountains of Moab in the background.</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiseYEhYnZ_j6WrcFYAG1vHYxkluVc1IyEmtu0M6F9cKlDZH2k75iVYTqqG5NPu_zYyanlJgHLxHhje2JVqfGwX8iCrrlxbjIn_elfuxppX7BXjIuPijo8irw-_ReuYUvIjFZxrKY7tzT7N/s1600/20191012_115852.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiseYEhYnZ_j6WrcFYAG1vHYxkluVc1IyEmtu0M6F9cKlDZH2k75iVYTqqG5NPu_zYyanlJgHLxHhje2JVqfGwX8iCrrlxbjIn_elfuxppX7BXjIuPijo8irw-_ReuYUvIjFZxrKY7tzT7N/s320/20191012_115852.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">There are fish. Really, there are.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Building, building, building. In another 5 years the landscape will be filled with high rises.</td></tr>
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We met Chuck and Louisa (my brother and sister-in-law, who I've been begging to come for a visit for years) at the Aqaba-Eilat border crossing. They started their trip in Petra and Wadi Rum and loved it. From Eilat we drove to Mitzpe Ramon. It's only 2 hours away, but the road is challenging. We stayed at a very modest hotel, the Ramon Suites. Actually with one exception all the hotels, and there aren't many, are modest. This one had a group of Koreans (2 buses worth) who sort of took the place over. They are Christian Zionists and very strong supporters of Israel. We heard singing and followed the sound. They had a choir singing in Korean and Hebrew. Amazing.</div>
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The reason people go to Mitzpe is to tour the Machtesh, the world's largest erosion crater. We hired an excellent guide, who gave us a master class in geology. He explained why the Negev (southern Israel) isn't actually a desert. It has a rain-fed aquifer and underground springs. This is why the Silk Road caravans were able to cross the Negev, carrying spices from India and perfumes from Oman and Yemen on the Arabian Peninsula, to the ports of Ashdod and Jaffa. Petra is a stop along the Silk Road. It's also why today a lot of Israel's agricultural production takes place in the Negev. All those stories about making the desert bloom are true. The crater has 80 of the 109 elements on the periodic chart. It contains all the compounds necessary to (literally) build Israel - limestone, sandstone, basalt, gypsum, etc. It is bustling with wildlife of all kinds, including some beggar ibex who were roaming the parking lot of the hotel. The mines operated until just a few years ago. Sadly, like so many other commodities, it's cheaper to import what used to be dug out of the ground.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Alen Gafny, our tour guide for the Machtesh. He's also certified in rappeling ... next time.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Is Chuck that tall or are the rest of us that short?</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This trailer-like structure is a research station. The logos are some of the participating companies. <br />
One of the projects is Mars research. </td></tr>
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One of the things to be very aware of in this region is flash floods. They are just what the name suggests. Torrents of water appear out of nowhere and can be deadly. There was a flash flood warning the day we were in the Machtesh, in spite of the bright blue sky. We stopped for a short break and suddenly the sky clouded up. I was a bit concerned, but the guide assured us it wasn't going to rain. He was almost right ... we just had a few drops. Sukkot is the start of the rainy season, and after 6 years of drought, Israel really needs the rain. As long as I don't get caught in it. I don't like to get wet.</div>
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Shabbat shalom from Jerusalem,</div>
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Peggy and Sid</div>
Peg and Sidhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13785932543768697067noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7940580187060778966.post-430187611528551252019-10-07T14:28:00.001-07:002019-10-07T14:28:32.989-07:00Let the Games Begin<br />
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The check in agent at O'Hare looked like maybe this was her first day on the job. Or maybe she was transferred from the domestic desk. After several minutes of staring at the computer with that confidence-inspiring look of panic she had to ask a supervisor for help. I asked if there was a problem. She said no, she just had to make sure we had the right documents. Meaning that the passports weren't about to expire. That shouldn't have taken the help of a supervisor. Then she asked if we had return tickets. DUH. She was staring at our reservation. Then she asked what country Tel Aviv is in. I almost hit the floor. She said we will get a 90 day visa on arrival. The thing is, we're staying 94 days. But she couldn't figure that out. Anyone who was on the ball would have pointed it out to us. So much for checking that we had the right documents. Then she asked what country Amsterdam (where we changed planes) is in. Don't they teach geography anymore? </div>
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The flight from Chicago to Philadelphia (where we also changed planes) was uneventful, in spite of the iffy weather in Chicago that morning (Oct 2). All 3 flight attendants were overweight. I'm not talking about a few pounds. I'm talking about 20. And they were thisclose to retirement. Not that I'm a weightist or an ageist; I'm no spring chicken either. But these broads were really used up. </div>
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We got to Philly in time to kill an hour in the Admiral's Club, which was 7 gates away from our next flight. Only problem was, it's under construction. They have a second Club, but it's a hike. Fortunately you can get there by golf cart, which you have to order at the white courtesy phone. I always thought those phones were just wall decorations, but they actually work. It was our first ride on a cart and I felt the stares of people saying to themselves "they look healthy enough to walk; why should they get a ride?" The Admirals Club was small and crowded, with almost every chair occupied. </div>
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Then it was time to board the flight to Amsterdam. The flight attendant on my side must have been having a bad day. Or life. She had a mean look about her. At least she wasn't fat. But she needed more training. I have no idea what her mother tongue was, but her English wasn't so good. I ordered Glenlivet with 2 ice cubes. She asked if I wanted it with ice. Two cubes, I repeated. So she brings me 2 mini bottles of Dewers and a glass half filled with ice. I asked her for Glenlivet. She said she only had one. Fine, I said, I'll take it. Then came the hot towels. For the life of me, I can't figure out why they still do this. Maybe they want to taunt passengers by reminding them that once upon a time air travel was actually an elevated experience. Then the towels had to be picked up. I had a pile of kleenex on the console next to me (flying with a cold or sinus infection, whatever I came with) is NO fun. So when she collected the towels, she picked up the kleenex instead. How do you mistake a pile of fluffy kleenex for a limp towel? We were still in the fasten seat belt phase and I needed that kleenex. At least she brought replacements without having to be asked.</div>
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Then there was the dressing. You know those cute little bottles of salad dressing they serve. Well, neither Sid nor I could grip the little devil to twist it open. You needed something like a rubber glove, which we didn't have in our carry-ons. Sid finally managed to cut the seal on his. I certainly wasn't about to ask the flight attendant for help.</div>
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In Amsterdam we had to go through extra El Al security. The agent asked for our checked baggage receipts in order to match them with the arriving transferred bags. She asked if there was a missing receipt. I said no; 4 checked bags, 4 receipts. But they weren't sequential - 5,6,8,9. Where was 7? I told her how dumb the check in agent at O'Hare was, having to ask what countries Tel Aviv and Amsterdam were in. She just rolled her eyes.</div>
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When we landed in Tel Aviv the immigration area wasn't too busy. I went to the kiosk and checked myself in, while Sid went to the line for holders of foreign passports.What I didn't understand was why Israelis were in that line. I said to one woman that she should go to the kiosk. She said she did but the machine didn't recognize her passport. So instead of going to the clerk at the kiosks she went into the foreign passport line. Right in front of Sid. The immigration officer took quite a while to get her sorted out. Then it was Sid's turn. Remember the 90-day visa? The way around it is if you're staying a few days over you just tell the officer that you're staying 94 days, which Sid did. Well, the previous customer must have really pissed him off because he told Sid he has a 90 day visa and if he wants it extended he has to go to the Ministry of the Interior. </div>
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On to baggage claim ...</div>
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There were no carts. Anywhere. We had 4 bags, but only 2 had wheels. Sid tried to find a cart but no luck. I spotted an airport worker with a couple of carts and asked where she got them. She said they're bringing a bunch in from outside. Sid rushed off to grab one. Then I noticed something odd. Between the baggage carousels there are cart corrals. All were empty, and the notice on the display said "Out of Order". The carts are free, but you have to use a credit card to release them. When you return the cart you get the 10 shekel hold back on your card. Prevents theft. Great idea except that the machines are hard to work and break down all the time. I guess there was enough public grousing to go back to the old system of having plenty of carts all over the baggage claim area.</div>
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We got our bags, got our car and off we went to Jerusalem in traffic that wasn't bad at all. Until we got to the city. There is an enormous building project going on at the entrance to the city and it has caused traffic to be re-routed. Fortunately the signage is good. I got into all the right lanes, made all the right turns and got to the apartment. The son of the owner was waiting for us to help with the bags; I don't know how we would have made it without him. The apartment is on the 2.5th floor. At least that's how it's advertised. Bull. There are 54 steps, which according to my reckoning makes it the 5th floor. (Our apartment in Chicago, by way of comparison, is on the 14th floor and has 169 steps.) Just going up and down the stairs (no elevator) will put us in the best shape of our lives.</div>
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We ran over to the grocery store to pick up a couple of essentials and I ran into a friend. One of the things I like best about this neighborhood is that we know a lot of people. It's really like coming home.</div>
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We had Shabbat (Friday night and Saturday lunch) with my bffs the Hasanovs. All the kids and grandchildren were there. </div>
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Today, jet lag and upper respiratory whatever notwithstanding, we had to go to the supermarket. Reminiscent of Costco in many ways, including the Kirkland paper towels. This was for basics - paper products, bottled water and club soda, dairy products (cheese and yoghurt) etc. But my first stop was the olive bar. I'm an addict. I eat them by the treefull. There isn't a decent olive in North America. One of the first things I do when I get here, even before that first falafel, is to load up on olives.</div>
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A full grocery cart and 627 Shekels (about $185) later we went back to get the car. We had parked on the third floor of the shopping center where the supermarket is located. They have an interesting system for carts. There's a moving sidewalk that takes you up 2 floors. That's it. Then it stops. I asked the security guard (there's one at every entrance to everywhere) how we get to the third floor. He said not with the cart. WHAT?? 5 huge shopping bags full of stuff and we can't go up one floor? Grocery carts aren't allowed into the mall. I told Sid to stay with the cart and I would get the car and pick him up. Just one tiny little problem. When I drove down to the second floor I couldn't find him, and nothing looked like where I had left him. I drove around the floor a second time to be sure I didn't miss him, and realized that the lot where we parked didn't quite look like the lot that was by the supermarket. I wound up driving out of the lot and back in, starting the whole process over. I parked on the second floor this time and went to the mall entrance. The security guard on duty was way less than helpful, claiming he didn't know anything about the layout of the parking lot. But there was an information booth inside and I could ask. It turns out, as I had already begun to suspect, that there are multiple parking lots for this mall. So how was I going to find Sid? I went back to the supermarket, took the moving sidewalk up to the second floor, and there he was. At that point I was a bit beyond my breaking point and I said let's just take the groceries to the car. He said how? I had no answer. I asked the security guard if there was any way we could take the cart into the mall in order to get to the other lot. No. But he did call someone who helped. He explained about the multiple parking lots and how to get into the right one. Finally I was able to rescue Sid and our groceries. Fortunately we didn't buy anything frozen; it would have melted. Then all we had to do was shlepp about 200 pounds of stuff up the 54 stairs. </div>
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Then I returned the car. Got gas, no problem. Found the drop off location, no problem. Nice people at the rental agency. Then I walked toward the bus stop to get home. Traffic was horrendous, vehicle and pedestrian. Tons of soldiers from all the branches - army, air force and navy. There must have been some kind of ceremony, which happens regularly in Jerusalem. We'll be going to my grandson's in November when he finishes basic training. My bus was almost at the corner, which is past the stop, but stuck in traffic. I tapped on the door but the driver wouldn't let me on. They aren't supposed to, but sometimes you get a nice one. So I walked the half block to the stop and there, on the display that tells you when the next bus is due, was a message that said there are no upcoming buses for a while. I was ready to keel over. Jet lag woke me up around 3AM and I couldn't get back into sleep. We just had this to-do with the groceries. No taxis anywhere. Now I faced the possibility of having to walk home. Uphill. Repeating my mantra "that which doesn't kill us makes us stronger" I trudged up the hill. There is another bus stop at the top of the hill and the display said my bus would be there in 4 minutes. Whew! I nearly nodded off on the ride home; there's no way I could have walked. When I got back to the apartment (54 steps) Sid wanted to go out for dinner. I said I couldn't take another step. I was done. And so is this blog entry.<br />
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Till next time ... Gmar hatima tova.</div>
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Peg and Sidhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13785932543768697067noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7940580187060778966.post-8070988327306505902018-08-13T04:43:00.000-07:002018-08-13T04:43:38.089-07:00The Long Road Home<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Thursday, Aug 9, 615PM</div>
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Waiting for Eli and Batsheva to come over. We've been here for two months and no one from the family has been here, invitations notwithstanding. So we'll have a cup of tea and a piece of cake and say goodbye.</div>
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I made sure this final week was a busy one - too busy to focus on the fact that we are leaving tomorrow.</div>
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On Saturday night we went to Birman's. It's a somewhat sleazy bar on a side street off Ben Yehuda. We used to go regularly the first few winters we spent here, and then somehow it fell off the radar. Jenny and Dave went when they were here and had a really good time. There's live jazz on Saturday nights. It's still sleazy and our waiter was on another planet, but the music was better than average.</div>
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On Sunday I went on a tiyul (excursion) to Hebron. One of Judaism's four holy cities, it is the burial place of Abraham & Sarah, Isaac & Rebecca, Jacob & Leah. It's in Genesis; look it up. But why did Abraham buy this particular burial cave? Because according to tradition this is where Adam & Eve are buried.</div>
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There's been a Jewish presence in Hebron since Abraham's time. It took a decree by Hajj Amin el Husseini, the leader of the Wakf (Muslim religious council) in Jerusalem during the British occupation, to put an end to a 3000 year old community. In 1929 Hajj Amin issued a fatwa (religious decree) for a pogrom against the communities in Jerusalem, Hebron, Safed and Tiberias, the four holy cities. In Hebron alone 67 men, women and children were murdered on Shabbat morning, many others were injured, while the Brits stood idly by. They have a shameful record in this regard, as they had prior knowledge of this and other massacres that occurred on their watch. This was the beginning of the end of the Jewish presence in Hebron, as the Brits ultimately decided to forcibly evacuate, rather than defend them. There were some diehards who insisted on staying, but when the Jordanians conquered the city in 1948, even those few had to leave, thus ending the three millenia history of the Jews of Hebron.</div>
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Fast forward to 1967. After 19 years, Hebron was liberated from Jordanian occupation, and many of the residents who had to leave returned. They weren't exactly welcomed with open arms, and today, 51 years later, there isn't a lot of camaraderie. 30,000 Arabs and 900 Jews live in the city, and regrettably the IDF has to maintain a sizable presence in order to keep them from being slaughtered. Surprisingly, the Jews who live there are very happy, and when the cameras aren't rolling they get along decently with their neighbors. And there's a waiting list of people who want to move into the Jewish neighborhood. New residential construction is restricted (one of the more stupid conditions Israel agreed to) which means space is tight. In order to prioritize the waiting list you have to be a legacy. There are another 5 Jewish suburbs around Hebron which have a population of about 8,000. </div>
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We visited the Abraham Synagogue and the Hebron Museum, which is small and fascinating, and then went to the Machpela Cave to visit the graves. Today it's anything but a cave; in fact the exact location of the original burial cave isn't known, but most archaeologists agree that it's somewhere under the current building. Even during Biblical times there was some kind of structure over the cave. Then along came Herod who loved building grandiose edifices, and put up a grandiose edifice. A few centuries later, Christians turned it into a church. And a few centuries after that, Muslims turned it into a Mosque. The agreement today (the one that restricts residential building) is that Jews have exclusive use of the area that has Abraham, Sarah, Isaac and Rebecca's graves, the Muslims have control of the rest of the building.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The first stop on our tour was the Abraham Synagogue. <br />
It was founded in 1500 by Jews who had been evicted from Spain, and used continuously until 1948. <br />
The Jordanians demolished most of the structure and used it as a cattle barn. <br />
It was restored to it's original design after 1967.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Torah scrolls, still used today, are over 200 years old.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Beit Hadassah (Hadassah House) used to be a hospital. It's now an apartment building in the center of Jewish Hebron.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Beit Hadassah after the Jordanians destroyed it in 1948</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One of the memorial walls with photos of the 67 men, women and children who were massacred in 1929.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our docent at the museum, who lives at Beit Hadassah. <br />
She also lives the history of Hebron; her own father was murdered in their home when she was 2 years old. <br />
She's one of the returning residents.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Machpela Cave; typical Herodian architecture with the added minaret.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The grave of Leah</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The 3 graces (L to R) Peggy, Racheli and Batsheva</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Usually tourists want to be photographed with soldiers. <br />
These guys, part of the detachment that protects the Machpela, wanted to be photographed with me.<br />
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We went to the Dead Sea on Monday. Who wouldn't want to be somewhere where it's 105 degrees? Actually it was only 100, but a dry heat. We always have a good time there, no matter what the temperature is. Nir and Hannah happened to be there at the same time but at a different hotel. We met in the shopping center for a few minutes, more to say goodbye than anything else.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-juXBXu-83b_4D-n0rnyy5Bm6XwZsEc6jwZSRqdh06c47WtndgYLatCimdLS0tm3pjh12rtiEcx7rdDTx1QOlmiSfO6BCr8d9M_7QdaHd37W-tKxe3U4V1iQrY5Wxl7gGVh1loz-bfwNk/s1600/P80807-101439.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1185" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-juXBXu-83b_4D-n0rnyy5Bm6XwZsEc6jwZSRqdh06c47WtndgYLatCimdLS0tm3pjh12rtiEcx7rdDTx1QOlmiSfO6BCr8d9M_7QdaHd37W-tKxe3U4V1iQrY5Wxl7gGVh1loz-bfwNk/s200/P80807-101439.jpg" width="148" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The thing that looks like a tennis ball is actually a salt ball</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View from our room at sunrise</td></tr>
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We got back to Jerusalem in time to go to the Melanie Phillips book launch. She is a brilliant analyst and one of our favorite columnists. She wrote a novel, Legacy, which is a novelty for her.<br />
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<br />
<br />
Wednesday was my follow up appointment at the hair dresser. No photos. This is a new one and I think he's a keeper.<br />
<br />
Thursday, Aug 9. Our last day. I did some last minute shopping and met Yafit for coffee in the shuk. It was the first time we were able to get together, just us girls.<br />
<br />
Then home to finish packing. Eli, Batsheva and Yafit came over around 730. We gave them what was left in the fridge and said bye for now.<br />
<br />
******************************************************************<br />
Friday, Aug 10<br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
We're on the last leg of our trip home - the flight from
Philadelphia to O'Hare. Only delayed 2 hours, but that's not the worst of it.
American Airlines did us the courtesy of losing our luggage. The day
started very early. We were picked up at
3AM for our 7AM flight to Prague. Almost as soon as we started out there were
problems. The next pick up for our airport shuttle was the Leonardo Hotel. When
we arrived the doorman said the 3 people who had ordered the shuttle cancelled.
Some kind of misunderstanding with the front desk. The guests wanted a taxi,
and the hotel reserved the shuttle. The driver was understandably upset and
called the office to let them know what happened. Then he got into an argument
with the taxi driver who was waiting for the passengers. This seemed pretty
pointless, since it wasn't the taxi driver's fault, and it cost us about 10
minutes. The next pick up was at the corner of King George and Ben Yehuda. The
driver kept calling the passenger's cell phone but it was turned off. So again
he called the office, and they said she should be on the corner. There's really
no place to pull over but at 315AM there's not much traffic to block. Finally
she showed up. The next two pick ups went smoothly. The last one was a problem
because apparently the driver had the wrong address. By the time we got on our
way to the airport it was 335, and we needed to check in at 4. The driver raced
to the airport and we got there at 405AM, plus 10 more minutes to get over to
Terminal 1. It wasn't nearly as crowded as Terminal 3 and the check in process
went quickly. I was worried about being able to check our bags all the way thru
to Chicago, and I also worried about our luggage allowance. But the guy who
took care of us verified the 2 bag per person allowance and checked us thru to
O'Hare. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I didn't sleep a wink Thursday night. By the
time we boarded I was ready to pass out. I fell asleep as soon as I fastened my
seatbelt and slept an hour an a half.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We had an hour plus layover in Prague, and they
actually had a nice business class
lounge. To show you just how classy the lounge is, it's the only airport rest room I've ever seen that has a bidet.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<div class="MsoNormal">
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<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Then it was time to head over to the
gate. Well ... we haven't been thru security like this in years. The security agent
wanted to chat, which is a technique that's used in screening passengers and I
understand it. But this agent wanted to chat. When we said we originated in Tel
Aviv she had to know all about Israel. Meanwhile, over the loudspeaker, they
kept announcing "final boarding call for the flight to Philadelphia"
even tho we went to board at the time it said on our boarding passes. I
mentioned that this was our flight and she said yes, I know. Great. I had
visions of missing the plane because she wanted to know what we did in Israel
for 2 months. But she was just the warm up. The main event was going thru the
X-ray part of security. Everything had to come out of our carry-on bags -
liquids which had to be put into a plastic bag, laptops AND tablets AND
kindles AND cell phones. The only thing we didn't have to do was take off our shoes. All
this to the chorus of "final boarding call for the flight to Philadelphia".
We finally got thru this procedure, which was way worse than in Tel Aviv where
you don't have to undress or take anything out of your hand luggage, and they
only ask the rudimentary questions. Fortunately the gate was next to security,
and we collapsed into our seats.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<span style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">The ride to Philadelphia was smooth and we landed 45
minutes early. Maybe we could even stand by for an earlier flight to Chicago.
We got thru passport control quickly; then waited for our bags. And
waited. And waited some more, until the carousel stopped. I spotted an American
Airlines agent who said they probably didn't make it on to the plane in Prague. </span></span><span style="font-family: inherit;">Great. Just great. I have all kinds of contraband in my
suitcase (cheese, dried fruit, nuts). When we go thru passport control it's a
50-50 chance that we'll have to open our bags, but when they get lost I know
they'll be opened and all my treats will wind up on some CBP officer's dinner
table. On top of that our flight to Chicago was delayed two hours, and the prior flight to Chicago, which we could have made since we didn't have
luggage to worry about, was oversold.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
<span style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">So we headed to the Admiral's Club... and struck up a
conversation with a couple of very fascinating guys - brothers - who were
returning to Amsterdam after visiting family in the States. It turns out than
one of them is a singer who's been performing for about 60 years all over the
world. Ronnie Tober. We had a great time talking to them until it was finally
time to board our flight. I'm writing this at 39,000 feet and with so much
turbulence that even the flight attendants had to sit down. But we're about to
land and it's time to shut down this electronic device. </span></span><br />
<br />
*************************************************************<br />
<br />
Well, it's Sunday, Aug 12. I've been up since 3AM.<br />
<br />
They found our luggage and it will be delivered this afternoon. I won't end this post until I know if anything was confiscated.<br />
<br />
The bags were finally delivered at 645PM. All three. In Israel they had been opened for a security check. How do I know this? No TSA or USCBP notes inside. The important thing was that nothing was confiscated - the cheese, nuts and dried fruit arrived safe and sound.<br />
<br />
Until the next trip ...<br />
<br />
Peggy and Sid</div>
</div>
Peg and Sidhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13785932543768697067noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7940580187060778966.post-24205615621447550552018-08-03T07:03:00.001-07:002018-08-03T07:03:55.311-07:00. . . and Found<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">
The clock is ticking. Rapidly. One week from today we will be sadly winging our way back to Chicago. And I will continue to kick myself for making this such a short visit. Sid keeps reminding me that we are used to being here for 3 months; this time it's just two. There were legitimate reasons: we were here 6 months ago, the cost of housing for 2 summer months was the same as 3 in the winter, and the all-important ability to upgrade our flights (heaven forbid we should fly coach). Besides it's no easier to leave after 3 months than after two.<br />
<br />
The closer we get to leaving, the more I attempt to pack the remaining time with things we haven't done before. On Shabbat we walked over to the Botanic Garden, which we've never been to. It was nice, but because it was Shabbat all the activities (like a rock wall and very short zip line) were closed. Still it's a very nice place in the middle of the city.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCqhIp64ojUvNtiQMvEecDlxYM0ueFIKaMtpe9zYq9F8uztISAljJVFwIdWZ5MBifaZCcQTKMxZ3W2fwqDVE2E99SSaplMN978AoZaLsz-idMKdya_KXUhwvgR2l5sai-otBzLs8uxE7ZV/s1600/P80728-141034.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1185" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCqhIp64ojUvNtiQMvEecDlxYM0ueFIKaMtpe9zYq9F8uztISAljJVFwIdWZ5MBifaZCcQTKMxZ3W2fwqDVE2E99SSaplMN978AoZaLsz-idMKdya_KXUhwvgR2l5sai-otBzLs8uxE7ZV/s200/P80728-141034.jpg" width="148" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Waterfall in the Botanic Garden</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeNBhdMD_YXcQjx0Ah6M34g_FNUyzvmohv65ktt7SQBPGTJM-0CWmrZQ_yDi9dloorwASmla9cefHQtqe1p3pdRMYBkbbFrjQd4363cBBGN8xFJpbKFUopbjJPVYFzv0qWPx8gsYtxd_nV/s1600/P80728-131149.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1185" data-original-width="1600" height="148" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeNBhdMD_YXcQjx0Ah6M34g_FNUyzvmohv65ktt7SQBPGTJM-0CWmrZQ_yDi9dloorwASmla9cefHQtqe1p3pdRMYBkbbFrjQd4363cBBGN8xFJpbKFUopbjJPVYFzv0qWPx8gsYtxd_nV/s200/P80728-131149.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Most activities were closed for Shabbat, but they kept the stocks open.<br />Wonder what kind of message that sends.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKhLW88PlOYClDkaiqNwwABKyzzFZC66epx-R0aTzg9YdtS0Q7dumbfEalN04Fqgrii8LL-hAAPEkkQ5vMzUVJRWBztvv6KqMNrtR1hmbYP4M-Yr_OLx_6RSayQe_glGiuS0rLEYdrtaVx/s1600/P80728-130000.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="1280" height="112" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKhLW88PlOYClDkaiqNwwABKyzzFZC66epx-R0aTzg9YdtS0Q7dumbfEalN04Fqgrii8LL-hAAPEkkQ5vMzUVJRWBztvv6KqMNrtR1hmbYP4M-Yr_OLx_6RSayQe_glGiuS0rLEYdrtaVx/s200/P80728-130000.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Water lilies and pirate ship.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
On Sunday we went to the City of David. We've been there before, but the dig is on-going and it seems every week another critical object is unearthed from the rubble. It's still not agreed among all archaeologists that this is where King David ruled, but there's all kinds of evidence pointing in that direction. Altho we've been there before, this was a completely different tour. Instead of going all the way down to the bottom of the site, we made our way through a very narrow tunnel to the Western Wall. The guide was very good and we were a small group - just 8 of us.<br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkAl84bAttwWuCXDSiJiFKqNCmxoZCzmZIO-BVRjXWT9fxwjcdY7vjDFXbOxGBoXRQNTGjbcd6tIurdNBpu_aOdarlbb-1E7KC3-YaJwVuzgA4rOrCSPts_GC6NoMRk9QoeXUFZRLBTTp8/s1600/IMG-20180731-WA0002.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkAl84bAttwWuCXDSiJiFKqNCmxoZCzmZIO-BVRjXWT9fxwjcdY7vjDFXbOxGBoXRQNTGjbcd6tIurdNBpu_aOdarlbb-1E7KC3-YaJwVuzgA4rOrCSPts_GC6NoMRk9QoeXUFZRLBTTp8/s200/IMG-20180731-WA0002.jpg" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tunnel to the Western Wall from the City of David</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
That evening we had dinner in the plaza outside the Music Museum at a restaurant called Kinor in the Plaza. It was fabulous. My new favorite restaurant here. Afterwards we went to a comedy show called the Aliyah Monologues, about the foibles and eccentricities of living here. The comedian (standupist in Hebrew) is originally from Rochester NY. It was so-so, and at times he was a bit antagonistic to the audience. Glad we went but I wouldn't go again.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgg118NhW6NxHGe_kT_G-iZAaWKUu-11qxlZ-_GHL8VSaPfsV-eqFoF8TBJa1GbqeaUEyozQMgXm2vI5X62Q7QTnqgCGAGf6Ag2ysKak9c8pSFtW3ShcqrtlKbI2u_fqL4be3SRxwKJB9RB/s1600/P80729-181255.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1185" data-original-width="1600" height="148" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgg118NhW6NxHGe_kT_G-iZAaWKUu-11qxlZ-_GHL8VSaPfsV-eqFoF8TBJa1GbqeaUEyozQMgXm2vI5X62Q7QTnqgCGAGf6Ag2ysKak9c8pSFtW3ShcqrtlKbI2u_fqL4be3SRxwKJB9RB/s200/P80729-181255.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dinner at Kinor in the Plaza with Jenny and Dave</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
Then there was Monday, my birthday and the reason for coming here in the summer. I decided if I have to be 70, it might as well be in Israel which is also 70.<br />
<br />
We started the day with a Shuk tour, given by the person who originated the tour in English. An interesting character herself, it was very informative. She talked about the history and pointed out the various vendors and restaurants she likes. It took two hours, after which you can't help but be hungry. We had a light lunch at Azura, a very well known Iraqi/Kurdish restaurant famous for its kubbeh soup and various ways of serving hoummous, and the fact that everything is slow-cooked on kerosene stoves like they did in the old country.<br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8g8v3t4xfj_jrZxScUqD7SeDUk7GKECt88G2YfCR_s6D_1Gb7eITYkdli3ZEdl9Anlyn0X0x9RvHrLyqTaBTgRuF5pkEqanb4vL_wQqlPnx7ghxNiB6ODCVMqv_xf1mN_lrwce0TwI28w/s1600/P80730-122721.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1185" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8g8v3t4xfj_jrZxScUqD7SeDUk7GKECt88G2YfCR_s6D_1Gb7eITYkdli3ZEdl9Anlyn0X0x9RvHrLyqTaBTgRuF5pkEqanb4vL_wQqlPnx7ghxNiB6ODCVMqv_xf1mN_lrwce0TwI28w/s200/P80730-122721.jpg" width="148" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tour guide Sybil Kaplan, who lived in West Rogers Park at one time.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBqKqgy4si6CJA9duescFeIOBUNVlN9WBba1sRFsqJHtb1Ejasq059Tw6RcPaBELmAjipmRTGOxbwhNzKQ_BkOhMmOrWC1dD_sbYkNP8MoN0UUHAfwKQIHXP2vz7JYfUucxYhu-_kra6th/s1600/P80730-131137.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1185" data-original-width="1600" height="148" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBqKqgy4si6CJA9duescFeIOBUNVlN9WBba1sRFsqJHtb1Ejasq059Tw6RcPaBELmAjipmRTGOxbwhNzKQ_BkOhMmOrWC1dD_sbYkNP8MoN0UUHAfwKQIHXP2vz7JYfUucxYhu-_kra6th/s200/P80730-131137.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pots simmering on kerosene stoves at Azura</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<br />
There was just enough time to nap, then it was off to the Rimon restaurant. We had 26 people and TONS of food. It was lovely, just what I wanted.<br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPWGJ586Irpca3j98lxStrlS30OuDbVab963W3yQOmV7qKLlzq9d7wqaxzc4pChN-Umrny2FcDrufch_8YCZiOaozOLohSAWgLcu7C9ph7lzY9GmKgJWG_hZC26Iwi2PDupKxxQjIW7wWt/s1600/P80730-184702.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1185" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPWGJ586Irpca3j98lxStrlS30OuDbVab963W3yQOmV7qKLlzq9d7wqaxzc4pChN-Umrny2FcDrufch_8YCZiOaozOLohSAWgLcu7C9ph7lzY9GmKgJWG_hZC26Iwi2PDupKxxQjIW7wWt/s200/P80730-184702.jpg" width="148" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Before the guests arrived</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJhWvAmQTNh7JP7r9o_jJt3c-FcU-f6RQtnMgs1Yj5WakHf77xSYwfTDW1siEwSQlAicOt8GATLwSWaCuwfk9e_YBQXSp-BLb9zvfDdDURReyefVuxq_s2R25QNGOwMr0yUNhU2kBfdxA5/s1600/P80730-193808.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1185" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJhWvAmQTNh7JP7r9o_jJt3c-FcU-f6RQtnMgs1Yj5WakHf77xSYwfTDW1siEwSQlAicOt8GATLwSWaCuwfk9e_YBQXSp-BLb9zvfDdDURReyefVuxq_s2R25QNGOwMr0yUNhU2kBfdxA5/s200/P80730-193808.jpg" width="148" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And after </td></tr>
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AND in the middle of the party I got a call from Jessica. It was noisy and I couldn't hear her, but I did hear her say something about a phone and a what'sapp. I looked at my phone and there was a message that someone had found my lost phone! It was missing for a week and I had given up all hope of ever seeing it again. How it surfaced and who found it remain a mystery, but whoever left the message said it would be at a restaurant on the Music Museum plaza, ironically right next to the restaurant where we ate the night before. After the party we walked over and picked it up. People said it was a birthday miracle, and indeed it was.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAlF59CyI3bW9Cjp5gPM-e9FAjmvurnpzPCsaRFJWhvftMB8mHrXyP8TLIXNEfvW0Uo90r79qe60NDKPQzBBLMnPBfj4dyRHdWdWZkcqSLuWn8ZXZAfv2HmzS6RVKp2NJFC-3u0AQ0NpF1/s1600/IMG-20180731-WA0005.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAlF59CyI3bW9Cjp5gPM-e9FAjmvurnpzPCsaRFJWhvftMB8mHrXyP8TLIXNEfvW0Uo90r79qe60NDKPQzBBLMnPBfj4dyRHdWdWZkcqSLuWn8ZXZAfv2HmzS6RVKp2NJFC-3u0AQ0NpF1/s200/IMG-20180731-WA0005.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">After getting my phone back. Truly a birthday miracle.</td></tr>
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Because you can never have too many happy occasions, the following evening we went to Julia and Don Aaronson's grandson's wedding. It was in a garden in Kfar Etzion, a place that has seen its share of tragedies, about 20 minutes outside of Jerusalem. Every wedding has magical moments. The one that particularly resonated with me was when the 7th wedding blessing was recited. It's the one about the happy voices of brides and grooms being heard in the streets of Jerusalem and the surrounding cities. It comes from Jeremiah, who witnessed the destruction of the Temple, and out of the depths of despair prophesied that one day people would again celebrate marriage and life in the very places of devastation. And there we were, facing the Judean Hills as the sun set, and the words of the prophet weren't written on subway walls, but were in fact coming true on this hilltop.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1YAjUfzFaqonkLdyCklAzfdxyb7Ek-7FshSqx4Tz8ZWtn2L25CU2fAJM4prvATsgXYI_SoToMpmbWd6EubEUv0unLhWEBhfzvy2QmwF1qsZezaDHDJxS4Z4p3tCm8j9R8icUfhW0dmEw0/s1600/P80731-212911.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1185" data-original-width="1600" height="148" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1YAjUfzFaqonkLdyCklAzfdxyb7Ek-7FshSqx4Tz8ZWtn2L25CU2fAJM4prvATsgXYI_SoToMpmbWd6EubEUv0unLhWEBhfzvy2QmwF1qsZezaDHDJxS4Z4p3tCm8j9R8icUfhW0dmEw0/s200/P80731-212911.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sid and Julia</td></tr>
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I've said it before and can't say it enough. Nobody puts on a show like the Israelis. Last night we went to the Wine Festival at the Israel Museum. We didn't know this was a thing until a couple weeks ago when a friend mentioned it. And we're never here in the summer so there's no reason we would have. It was amazing. About 30 wineries, plus makers of cheeses, olive oils and chocolates participated. And there was a terrific band. It was wonderful and we got to try some of the lesser known boutique wines that we can't get in the States.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMciIGPnPdtxGtzNBE_HfbaPf4BoUiTdhcpM9I1V0QOqaVJjUpR26pTOHA0Sjnw16fXNCInTavMVoG2-WWv5NekgTRbow8QVOlhyphenhyphenu1NleAebwrTR2nqD5Dfa3nj90LAPm5q1GZxP7a5fp5/s1600/P80802-200113.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1185" data-original-width="1600" height="148" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMciIGPnPdtxGtzNBE_HfbaPf4BoUiTdhcpM9I1V0QOqaVJjUpR26pTOHA0Sjnw16fXNCInTavMVoG2-WWv5NekgTRbow8QVOlhyphenhyphenu1NleAebwrTR2nqD5Dfa3nj90LAPm5q1GZxP7a5fp5/s200/P80802-200113.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtZQf2J9TuI0xa_bLFfFsaxzBNtYPwQrXcMxaVzW5KhJDwEYApjLYKx0RW-FHiUhAMvFEUGeQzLMDPMcgHYKLc8q6a4OI97BFJaGleLYkEPvQPR6GOSFQa__wZONyhMZnpPetwhy4ZaA3I/s1600/P80802-200041.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1185" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtZQf2J9TuI0xa_bLFfFsaxzBNtYPwQrXcMxaVzW5KhJDwEYApjLYKx0RW-FHiUhAMvFEUGeQzLMDPMcgHYKLc8q6a4OI97BFJaGleLYkEPvQPR6GOSFQa__wZONyhMZnpPetwhy4ZaA3I/s200/P80802-200041.jpg" width="148" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">They had a frites food truck. I have no idea where they dug this old model up.</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgywQf-uZ8Tzi9zQU3DsBFmVcz7rsIMz8e2qkPIXpAO9A6pTOfGksu6wej6zFKJkuw2l2apQsHT_s3P1xdxIySWpYPyixp4_ck6ZCjNB-C3bDjkVAoiJq3YS2rE0ozRL0uhb_JIXeKdaF1M/s1600/P80802-202534.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1185" data-original-width="1600" height="148" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgywQf-uZ8Tzi9zQU3DsBFmVcz7rsIMz8e2qkPIXpAO9A6pTOfGksu6wej6zFKJkuw2l2apQsHT_s3P1xdxIySWpYPyixp4_ck6ZCjNB-C3bDjkVAoiJq3YS2rE0ozRL0uhb_JIXeKdaF1M/s200/P80802-202534.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHH4m1WZHXPhURuwm6ESM6RnyTz8b5YKNNCWVzIFm3CPf60wM_WLP_aanAwa8WIOW15uCJjdxHfVHY3N9sLphN4aE5J1DBgoMf10PULdXeXwbXvFn-xsNlsy4FX_03kzkdqXF_iLmP3fXu/s1600/P80802-204327.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1185" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHH4m1WZHXPhURuwm6ESM6RnyTz8b5YKNNCWVzIFm3CPf60wM_WLP_aanAwa8WIOW15uCJjdxHfVHY3N9sLphN4aE5J1DBgoMf10PULdXeXwbXvFn-xsNlsy4FX_03kzkdqXF_iLmP3fXu/s200/P80802-204327.jpg" width="148" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This is the artist who decorated the metal doors in the Shuk</td></tr>
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And so we ended the week. One more to go.<br />
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Shabbat shalom from Jerusalem,<br />
Peggy and Sid</div>
Peg and Sidhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13785932543768697067noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7940580187060778966.post-57505360621978538692018-08-02T03:01:00.000-07:002018-08-02T03:01:52.886-07:00Lost . . .<br />
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Yes, this is late.</div>
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It's been a busy couple of weeks.</div>
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Saturday night, July 21, was Tisha B'Av (the 9th day of the Hebrew month Av), a day that will live in infamy for the Jewish people. The list of calamities that occurred on that date goes all the way back to Biblical times.</div>
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The Hebrew slaves left Egypt in the month of Nissan, roughly April on the solar calendar. Seven weeks later they reached Mt Sinai and received the 10 Commandments. There followed a period of about a year during which a portable tabernacle was built. When it was completed they were ready to set out for the Promised Land. The distance from Sinai to the Promised Land was only a matter of a few weeks. So far so good. When they got close to the border, Moses sent 12 scouts to scope out the land they were about to enter. When they returned from their reconnaissance mission 10 of the 12 reported to Moses that the land was unconquerable. It was inhabited by giants who would wipe out the Jewish people. When news of the report spread throughout the encampment people were distraught and, not for the first time, said why did we leave Egypt? Slavery might not have been a picnic, but at least we weren't going to be crushed like bugs. These same people had witnessed the 10 Plagues, the splitting of the Reed Sea (not a typo - the actual name of the sea is Reed, not Red), they'd eaten manna and fought the Amalakites and won. But when 10 of the 12 scouts reported a land of giants, they fell apart. Well, this was the last straw for the Ruler of the universe. If the people who left Egypt and experienced all those miracles didn't have faith that they would prevail in the land that was promised to them ... well, that generation simply didn't get to inherit the land. That's why it took another 38 years of wandering in the desert; the slave generation had to be replaced by a new generation that didn't know Egypt. And when did all this crying and complaining take place? Yup, the 9th of Av.</div>
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Other notable events that occurred on that fateful date:</div>
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Both Temples were destroyed. The first in 586 BCE, the second in 70 CE.</div>
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The Battle of Beitar, the final losing battle of the revolt against Rome.</div>
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In 1095 CE the first crusade was declared. Crusades weren't very good for the Jews; hundreds of thousands were killed by crusaders on their way to the holy land.</div>
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In 1290 CE the Jews were expelled from England, and in 1492 from Spain.</div>
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The liquidation of the Warsaw Ghetto began in 1942.</div>
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And for anyone who doesn't believe in coincidences ... 9/11. The 11th month of the Hebrew calendar is Av.</div>
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So with all these events to commemorate, the 9th of Av is a national day of mourning and a fast day. Although observed by Jews worldwide, the date has a more visceral feeling here in Israel. We can actually see where these events happened. It begins at sunset with reading the Book of Lamentations, and there are some very creative locations where this takes place; it's not just in synagogues. There are public readings at the Western Wall, at a promenade overlooking the Old City, and at Herodium (see last week's post), from where the flames of the fires that burned Jerusalem were visible. And for the past 24 years an organization called Women in Green has sponsored a reading of Lamentations in Independence Park followed by a walk around the Old City Walls. We never knew about the walk; we're never here in the summer. So we had to go and it was quite an event. Several hundred people participated, and all the streets along the route were blocked. Naturally there was a large police presence and very few onlookers. Women in Green is a Zionist movement dedicated to safeguarding the Biblical Jewish homeland.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVpfPuNBvFom24h-GppGt1nTttvdZPSLwW5MUIIdNXiz_5S_89YMFUnDicbKbsGqeRnLcCml0Xj29bGABfcl3Z7R_7JwzwuzwKqqjXJ5dECS2yPKpkf783_VOmzP0D6ibG6w7xQPwlRUpo/s1600/20180721_225650.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVpfPuNBvFom24h-GppGt1nTttvdZPSLwW5MUIIdNXiz_5S_89YMFUnDicbKbsGqeRnLcCml0Xj29bGABfcl3Z7R_7JwzwuzwKqqjXJ5dECS2yPKpkf783_VOmzP0D6ibG6w7xQPwlRUpo/s200/20180721_225650.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Setting off from Independence Park</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimR4LUA-_pn0_zYOFeCbojHzeP6YFgPYlJah322ufZGiU92F-L1SbA1OcErJqgOpqE9nxUqDieShjBFwDoEF4l-MP1RsQsuuohLzyd1yPGxssk_cAs1x9NTFgJ9o3HRYUA42qKri7vyDss/s1600/20180721_223349.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimR4LUA-_pn0_zYOFeCbojHzeP6YFgPYlJah322ufZGiU92F-L1SbA1OcErJqgOpqE9nxUqDieShjBFwDoEF4l-MP1RsQsuuohLzyd1yPGxssk_cAs1x9NTFgJ9o3HRYUA42qKri7vyDss/s200/20180721_223349.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgquaCEGARbVdMf5G4Vx6aPdSiho6uUP9KO_QCqiD2eNuZf5qLbiYpNh5gbs_SnfgPaNUKt4sfs5-iRTYsFFzRlJObrKenFmSV1R8MmHTIARtKHuZntC3nIx_3NnsIQeXX6Ouin1KONNtxk/s1600/20180721_233808.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgquaCEGARbVdMf5G4Vx6aPdSiho6uUP9KO_QCqiD2eNuZf5qLbiYpNh5gbs_SnfgPaNUKt4sfs5-iRTYsFFzRlJObrKenFmSV1R8MmHTIARtKHuZntC3nIx_3NnsIQeXX6Ouin1KONNtxk/s200/20180721_233808.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Speeches at the end. Too many speeches at the end. It was around midnight.</td></tr>
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On Monday the 23rd we went to the Hebrew Music Museum. Sounds boring as hell, right? Well, next time you are in Jerusalem be sure to visit, and don't do the self-guided tour, go with a docent. The museum itself is gorgeous and the collection of instruments is eye-popping. The plus of going on a decent tour is that you get to play the instruments. It was delightful.</div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6BLfipXUNtN0l7Jm_hnQKhcA81kQfsRzQNs2oxlpBWnsqZsahCtxNjScfarGipGFyV1PKC4wCyiADGymwSxRVsEiZLVenBJkyRQ-1h9xQ4oQWWYEL6bn0-LOiaYyRQdXC0y7JXtOCrqjW/s1600/P80723-141537.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1185" data-original-width="1600" height="148" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6BLfipXUNtN0l7Jm_hnQKhcA81kQfsRzQNs2oxlpBWnsqZsahCtxNjScfarGipGFyV1PKC4wCyiADGymwSxRVsEiZLVenBJkyRQ-1h9xQ4oQWWYEL6bn0-LOiaYyRQdXC0y7JXtOCrqjW/s200/P80723-141537.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Plaza outside the Museum.<br />
Half a dozen great restaurants + an art installation.</td></tr>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQdDfXmcTrlQhJTP0AA7pBU-cEeKU_prob6wkzOQF9vvnSMqyjx3ZPsZdQc4YWE9Ve_UvuQz3p_zjvsJmOUgIAw-z-UA4kTQODVHiNbXeHyL55dU_EYQ4E61GWTINqEJKx0jcQHw6CDCcT/s1600/P80723-154706.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1185" data-original-width="1600" height="148" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQdDfXmcTrlQhJTP0AA7pBU-cEeKU_prob6wkzOQF9vvnSMqyjx3ZPsZdQc4YWE9Ve_UvuQz3p_zjvsJmOUgIAw-z-UA4kTQODVHiNbXeHyL55dU_EYQ4E61GWTINqEJKx0jcQHw6CDCcT/s200/P80723-154706.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This is a "psantranit", which is a precurser to the piano.<br />
It's a72-string instrument described in the Book of Daniel.<br />
There were 12 of these used in the Temple.</td></tr>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioXN6vlHp8QQrDFbTDYGS_AcZZ1HQbwpP5bK5xScb1fZVzOU7yx33teI5qdlk8Y-0iwvsJdP-DE1PRYFVwEsSSAgiiyiDhVWp1OjYfsWhBbYvyGlIKdC6pY4J81EuViUWkrmviyqJpnwbp/s1600/P80723-154733.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1185" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioXN6vlHp8QQrDFbTDYGS_AcZZ1HQbwpP5bK5xScb1fZVzOU7yx33teI5qdlk8Y-0iwvsJdP-DE1PRYFVwEsSSAgiiyiDhVWp1OjYfsWhBbYvyGlIKdC6pY4J81EuViUWkrmviyqJpnwbp/s200/P80723-154733.jpg" width="148" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This is a Jericho trumpet, as in the walls came tumbling down.<br />
It was also used in the Temple.<br />
The example above comes from Bukhara and sounds like the Swiss horns in the Ricola commercial.</td></tr>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsvvyYaiQqjooUXe1EfMLPK1FjZUu1D7hEW0Z4PtpLDWDgErQxhyphenhyphenURbilLaVWnDK7SzbsiK-yGVJbtLokCdt566HVP2faT6HJ0x8peSo4hxxFMtxBDf-6x4cui8uB4KK0jNIAYiU0TkeKv/s1600/P80723-154746.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1185" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsvvyYaiQqjooUXe1EfMLPK1FjZUu1D7hEW0Z4PtpLDWDgErQxhyphenhyphenURbilLaVWnDK7SzbsiK-yGVJbtLokCdt566HVP2faT6HJ0x8peSo4hxxFMtxBDf-6x4cui8uB4KK0jNIAYiU0TkeKv/s200/P80723-154746.jpg" width="148" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This stringed instrument is a camenche and is covered in fish skin.<br />
The thinking is this is the kind of lyre played by King David.</td></tr>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuMQUkSrWH0qGQZeuicXeg5vqsoqXMgBCKEJSiiZ0EwqZHT6DvgiJLiR9vQ9K85WQQ5uHeuKmmCGWHcoNW5sVFfz4kFIfelQ0PTSHlORgw7MGUXlo2vZv8O02zQqZzgjb25jbc06l-B9ev/s1600/20180723_155106_1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="112" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuMQUkSrWH0qGQZeuicXeg5vqsoqXMgBCKEJSiiZ0EwqZHT6DvgiJLiR9vQ9K85WQQ5uHeuKmmCGWHcoNW5sVFfz4kFIfelQ0PTSHlORgw7MGUXlo2vZv8O02zQqZzgjb25jbc06l-B9ev/s200/20180723_155106_1.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The flutes on the right are of the type played by King David; also used in the Temple.</td></tr>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkaIuIMjU3541KQPzdhIgH4Z-GniHYNr9upAzjSBYzNGYlSn1XgM7-unn0q8xMjwpfVewHvgIa38LOyzNa4z435AB1uggX2EGYobw2FzySScicVztijkPfLU9TIUBG2EkRUnpLsvzRAQra/s1600/P80723-152602.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1185" data-original-width="1600" height="148" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkaIuIMjU3541KQPzdhIgH4Z-GniHYNr9upAzjSBYzNGYlSn1XgM7-unn0q8xMjwpfVewHvgIa38LOyzNa4z435AB1uggX2EGYobw2FzySScicVztijkPfLU9TIUBG2EkRUnpLsvzRAQra/s200/P80723-152602.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yeminite shofar</td></tr>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ87t_Vu1gKQ4dowvTQU31OOfgIfNY49JDfs1tUTgpLGlUqagQxjnlvnvTb36mo_txXne8QOFb9G6w9EHmNoBtwowEUJ3q7pRxpwYBpHs5NUuN3ezgghyXedjim95escYBjUyTt1dUqcr6/s1600/P80723-151936.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1185" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ87t_Vu1gKQ4dowvTQU31OOfgIfNY49JDfs1tUTgpLGlUqagQxjnlvnvTb36mo_txXne8QOFb9G6w9EHmNoBtwowEUJ3q7pRxpwYBpHs5NUuN3ezgghyXedjim95escYBjUyTt1dUqcr6/s200/P80723-151936.jpg" width="148" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This kid was adorable. <br />
He was "volunteered" by his parents when the docent asked if someone wanted to play the instruments.<br />
That's why you want to take a docent-led tour. </td></tr>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoMVA5N85ldH5SrkaqE_nyY12BYiCVQ86pGNTQ47SK_Zos1zinde1W92C3jwqbhrXrquOi5BKCgp3Y62aZZC4j0C8MPY4axLgfrXaEgJ_OM88KVL2a23l_1v5wiYWh09w21Vz28KKOI-gO/s1600/20180723_155021.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoMVA5N85ldH5SrkaqE_nyY12BYiCVQ86pGNTQ47SK_Zos1zinde1W92C3jwqbhrXrquOi5BKCgp3Y62aZZC4j0C8MPY4axLgfrXaEgJ_OM88KVL2a23l_1v5wiYWh09w21Vz28KKOI-gO/s200/20180723_155021.jpg" width="112" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This is a bagpipe. They were made of small goats or cows, and used by merchants in Egypt and Persia to announce their arrival in local markets. The sound is very much like a Scottish bagpipe.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtafLTC6N72LisjWs0LHdRJh2GsiZSM_AVtfmpZs6c44RkJUq9s5_BieyqO2A8lPVyeuXEslP4uRpk6GF7A31apJPvq84a4VWGtYY2cuO0ioqFV5QrygyvCb6DVudJkGHRXmHCVkkEuWWG/s1600/20180723_154952.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="112" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtafLTC6N72LisjWs0LHdRJh2GsiZSM_AVtfmpZs6c44RkJUq9s5_BieyqO2A8lPVyeuXEslP4uRpk6GF7A31apJPvq84a4VWGtYY2cuO0ioqFV5QrygyvCb6DVudJkGHRXmHCVkkEuWWG/s200/20180723_154952.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wood ceiling in the Moroccan room. Hand carved in Morocco by the King's master craftsmen. </td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKX9yJN-lEinXcC8p5anyfuJjYHJhJ4-ULxmQDPuwe5DspbHbzfzhhNUAJtSh5scEinuXBFnz60g-PBaRyT3iVfg78TZOEW92WmY87SLnBzpP9Ri6yHsPucK45CYyL_WKS6ByRp48nrRgR/s1600/20180723_155354.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKX9yJN-lEinXcC8p5anyfuJjYHJhJ4-ULxmQDPuwe5DspbHbzfzhhNUAJtSh5scEinuXBFnz60g-PBaRyT3iVfg78TZOEW92WmY87SLnBzpP9Ri6yHsPucK45CYyL_WKS6ByRp48nrRgR/s200/20180723_155354.jpg" width="112" /></a></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">No reason why kids should have all the fun.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The final part of the tour was an astounding virtual reality experience. It was a tour and explanation of the Temple.</td></tr>
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And then the roof fell in.</div>
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We got home and I couldn't find my American phone. The Samsung 8, which isn't even a year old. We tore the house apart. Then I reconstructed our steps. I know I had it at the museum. From the museum we stopped at a grocery store. Then home. Could I have left it at the museum? The grocery store? I called the museum and they didn't have it. We walked back to the grocery store and they didn't have it. I was beyond inconsolable. The phone is gone, and with it a lot of data that I wouldn't want anyone to get their hands on. I called AT&T and had them block the number. Then I got busy changing all my passwords.</div>
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And apparently losing a phone wasn't enough for one day. I was checking emails and lo and behold I had one from Nordstrom. There's no reason to get a Nordstrom bill, since the last time I was there was in May. I opened the bill and saw a $716 charge. No way was this possible. So I called and explained that I'm out of the country and there had to be a mistake. The guy I spoke to checked and said my card was swiped at the Nordstrom on Michigan Avenue on June 26 ... for a pair of designer shoes. How could this be? My Nordstrom card is safely tucked away in Chicago. Well, it seems that my card was due to expire and they sent a new one. Apparently someone got hold of it, activated it and used it. But very cleverly. I have an $750 spending limit, and the charge was just below that threshold. The really bad part was that in order to activate the card whoever took it had to know my social security number. And he or she obviously knows my address, and with the internet it's not hard to find my date of birth. So my next call was to Experion to put a block on my credit report. There's someone out there who could be opening all kinds of credit cards in my name. I've been monitoring my accounts and so far haven't noticed anything odd. But I wouldn't know about any new cards.</div>
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Needless to say, I was devastated. This was too much for one day. But it was only one day of a week that was too busy to sweat the small stuff.</div>
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On Tuesday we went on a tiyul (outing) to a place called Ga'ash. I'd never heard of it. It's a kibbutz located over a natural mineral spring near Netanya. It's a big attraction for everybody, and I do mean everybody. Old and young. Families. Jews and Arabs. The ultimate melting pot. It was the first time I saw women (Jews and Arabs) in burkinis, which are modestly designed swimming suits.</div>
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On the way home we stopped at the music museum, hoping maybe someone found the phone. No luck.</div>
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On Wednesday the 25th we met our friends Doris and Norm Levitz and Timna Hurwich for lunch. Doris and Norm are, literally, the accidental immigrants. They came here for Passover and never went home. Fortunately they have someone back in Chicago who is taking care of emptying and selling their house. And they have kids, grandchildren and great-grandchildren here who are taking very good care of them as they settle in. At least one of the kids comes over every day. They are waiting to move into a retirement complex in Shoresh, which is a kibbutz about 15 minutes outside of Jerusalem. Kibbutzim these days aren't just agricultural and manufacturing. They have diversified, and several have gone into the geriatric business. Doris and Norm both look fabulous and are very happy with how things unfolded.</div>
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And on Thursday the 26th my niece and nephew, Jenny and Dave, arrived from London. The first place they wanted to go was the shuk, of course. In the evening we went to an amazing dance performance at the Jerusalem Theatre - Flamenco and Classical Spanish.</div>
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We took a fascinating walking tour of the Tower of David on Friday morning. Things I learned ... </div>
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It's called the Tower of David, even tho it was built long after King David. Medieval Christians toured the area with their bibles and knew that King David ruled from the "high place". This was a high place with a tower. Unfortunately the tower was a minaret, and the "high place" King David ruled from was across town. But the name stuck.</div>
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It was mostly a palace built by Herod, after he reconstructed the Second Temple. Ever the politician who used architecture to make political statements, he built his palace on a hill that was slightly higher than the Temple Mount, and it had the same dimensions as the Temple. The message was unmistakable - I'm the boss.</div>
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The moat around the palace never had water (understandable in a desert) or wild animals. The purpose was an early warning system. The moat is too narrow to be effective in an attack. The walls angle outward for a better defensive line of sight. </div>
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Water was always an important feature in Herod's buildings. He was able to channel underground springs into the cisterns that held water for drinking and for his pools and bathhouses. </div>
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I always thought the word kishle was Turkish for prison. Turns out it means barracks. During the 500 year Turkish occupation, they built a police station and barracks. That same police station was used by the British who followed the Turks, and by the Israel police today. The barracks were used by the British as a prison during their rule here. </div>
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The archaeological dig at the site has been slow-going, but they've dug down to 1st Temple times, again confirming various portions of the Bible.</div>
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I'd love to post photos, but I couldn't get my Israeli phone to work. </div>
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And so the week ended ... stay tuned for the next installment.</div>
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From Jerusalem,</div>
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Peggy and Sid</div>
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<br />Peg and Sidhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13785932543768697067noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7940580187060778966.post-31158332568739980392018-07-20T08:39:00.000-07:002018-07-28T06:22:49.877-07:00Herodium<br />
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Regrettably, the concept of diversity has been so thoroughly co-opted that I have all but eliminated it from my vocabulary. On occasion, however, no other word will do and exceptions must be made.</div>
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My summer semester at Pardes wrapped up yesterday. We were asked to submit an evaluation, and in response to one of the questions I had no choice but to answer "diverse". There was a diversity of classes, instructors and most of all students. It was very unusual to be with 20-somethings. Other than at the gym, where I out-last and out-perform them, it's a demographic I know nothing about. That hasn't really changed. But I did learn a few things from teachers who were remarkable and introduced me to areas of study and practice that were compelling. Most important of all I met people who I hope will be lifelong friends.</div>
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On Tuesday we had a tiyul (outing) to Herodium, one of King Herod's palaces - the one he chose as his final resting place. It was a place I'd wanted to visit for years. To give you an idea of how controversial Herod was, there is not one street in Israel that bears his name. He was brilliant and paranoid, an egomaniac and self-promoter, manipulative and ruthless, a contemporary of Anthony and Cleopatra, an adroit politician who knew how to balance competing domestic factions while simultaneously keeping his Roman overlords happy enough to remain in power. He was a visionary planner who built palaces, ports and aqueducts. His greatest architectural achievement was the Second Temple, one of the most spectacular in the ancient world. It was so well constructed that the outer retaining wall, the only part of the Temple compound that wasn't destroyed by the Romans in 70CE, survives to this day. That's what the Western Wall is. And to this day no one has figured out how the multi-ton blocks of limestone that support the structure were quarried, transported and put in place. The engineering required for the Temple and projects such as the port of Caesarea and the winter palace of Massada are marvels to this day.</div>
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Like Massada, Herodium was considered the invention (and exaggeration) of Josephus, himself a very controversial character. Prior to the Six Day War, when the purported locations were under Jordanian occupation, no one could even explore to verify his writings. Post the '67 War, the Department of Antiquities turned loose the best and brightest to find these fabled palaces. Herodium was identified in the early 70's and the excavations are on-going. But the real prize was the tomb itself, which was located in 2007. There is a very sad story attached to the tomb. In 2010 Ehud Netzer, the archaeologist who spent 35 years of his career working at Herodium, tragically fell to his death at the site, just days before it was to be opened to the public. He was giving a press tour, leaned on a wooden railing which wasn't secured and fell to his death. How ironic that he died in the very place where Herod was buried.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5idETjmX7etxF-YpJ_ARMKSBwsYtG5bINYz1yMLDiALIDwbpIbP73e1aaHid-XmZPnyck82103YCDkNy5BKyY_1J005XYZqrS1r_1ihenImixuuThYbuqhdiPD8ASGjEaWuVVuIvPdPaj/s1600/20180717_172759.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5idETjmX7etxF-YpJ_ARMKSBwsYtG5bINYz1yMLDiALIDwbpIbP73e1aaHid-XmZPnyck82103YCDkNy5BKyY_1J005XYZqrS1r_1ihenImixuuThYbuqhdiPD8ASGjEaWuVVuIvPdPaj/s200/20180717_172759.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lower Herodium. It's hard to tell, but this was actually a pool with a large platform in the center.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg78LbGnjRLjXfsKccLFvnexI4VT2pGU3VLuRZL0BZ2h1US3grLLPWiNSTtehtnSRH3bYAqckpRambiP74UDlrzRd6LJxEFL6TNWsP1jiJrwwL1IfvPWbbFhHwoU7EpdFO74JGRYMRc8x3r/s1600/20180717_174203.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg78LbGnjRLjXfsKccLFvnexI4VT2pGU3VLuRZL0BZ2h1US3grLLPWiNSTtehtnSRH3bYAqckpRambiP74UDlrzRd6LJxEFL6TNWsP1jiJrwwL1IfvPWbbFhHwoU7EpdFO74JGRYMRc8x3r/s200/20180717_174203.jpg" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At the model of the site. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYHsnI7sGB08aXh2eOzCar67npo2ttI86pXR3PNu4Wlg9KgZmHeGyJxjc6E48MjoLzQkj_qxLAFx1FByyyv_a8hOV12zM5TfOfOtSeNw5_HyzA0qwEcsiky_ed_ggyT7OCJZX7K068xy59/s1600/20180717_173242.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYHsnI7sGB08aXh2eOzCar67npo2ttI86pXR3PNu4Wlg9KgZmHeGyJxjc6E48MjoLzQkj_qxLAFx1FByyyv_a8hOV12zM5TfOfOtSeNw5_HyzA0qwEcsiky_ed_ggyT7OCJZX7K068xy59/s200/20180717_173242.jpg" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The model.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqfg6KTspK5WSwFITMBvnnm6jqFllypPOBADsVwJM9e6WKKkA-SO3TfhlwzvH6H-Q4eghiq6TaGWR48KV5sGlxXKcjyTM9eYv219Y8v-hd0qPhe0cOGccvj4QkNjR5cHmqTJCnmwBQ-CvX/s1600/20180717_153825.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqfg6KTspK5WSwFITMBvnnm6jqFllypPOBADsVwJM9e6WKKkA-SO3TfhlwzvH6H-Q4eghiq6TaGWR48KV5sGlxXKcjyTM9eYv219Y8v-hd0qPhe0cOGccvj4QkNjR5cHmqTJCnmwBQ-CvX/s200/20180717_153825.jpg" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The hike up. Way easier than Massada.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-Ndz_cLBlIWyn2nmpoKZC6Mi-3Vhl0HXR9b0rsfJQV2eYnRh4OoG4usYK93Rjnxt-bLsbEV0bsAPNVSrMyBFod7CwzQmo_rGu2SpGHGg8aPFRnV1w7EOw2IGTb8xnoADyss0jv9tnAxgJ/s1600/20180717_154132.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-Ndz_cLBlIWyn2nmpoKZC6Mi-3Vhl0HXR9b0rsfJQV2eYnRh4OoG4usYK93Rjnxt-bLsbEV0bsAPNVSrMyBFod7CwzQmo_rGu2SpGHGg8aPFRnV1w7EOw2IGTb8xnoADyss0jv9tnAxgJ/s200/20180717_154132.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Overview of the site.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguxpuSSj_DaWzgTOiqVzSTlg68FAsRVJwW05M6Fz3A3qOsemwMYoMGcvEH5rqmYxc9tzMTI-qQ3xogZBbP3pw2TFJo4j5_xatugxuADMm6WrUxpqF7vyUELcAoIAEceU0RyVX-FAB9wkuC/s1600/20180717_160027.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguxpuSSj_DaWzgTOiqVzSTlg68FAsRVJwW05M6Fz3A3qOsemwMYoMGcvEH5rqmYxc9tzMTI-qQ3xogZBbP3pw2TFJo4j5_xatugxuADMm6WrUxpqF7vyUELcAoIAEceU0RyVX-FAB9wkuC/s200/20180717_160027.jpg" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our guide. We were sitting in what was originally a banquet hall, but later converted into a synagogue by soldiers of the Bar Kochba revolt.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGZnCK22Cf0xYo97QGDXqmhvmW3pgNW_5CgT0tQi4qGYvdChAk1D0DiGueGqJ4srNXPTc8thFHEeDM-_BpAP8b1CSkW3T7EsPg8KbFdCBFL7a-Jeq9xtTU1H6tCLAmIn2Vo0Tl-7m8bRto/s1600/20180717_162350.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGZnCK22Cf0xYo97QGDXqmhvmW3pgNW_5CgT0tQi4qGYvdChAk1D0DiGueGqJ4srNXPTc8thFHEeDM-_BpAP8b1CSkW3T7EsPg8KbFdCBFL7a-Jeq9xtTU1H6tCLAmIn2Vo0Tl-7m8bRto/s200/20180717_162350.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">You have to use your imagination, but this is actually a domed ceiling, one of the tallest for its time.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi61TzTiaodv_eF-RIw6a-NKgCDVXcKtM_gr4SImdTBIdF7EdrSl-THc_Bf6TwDolDAZFW5wwr5A3XSTbf8hdf7ZG1lheA0GrnRpazqKWpKTnz931eWk34pAqyYmug-sGO_UuGmcP1R_kS3/s1600/20180717_164902.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi61TzTiaodv_eF-RIw6a-NKgCDVXcKtM_gr4SImdTBIdF7EdrSl-THc_Bf6TwDolDAZFW5wwr5A3XSTbf8hdf7ZG1lheA0GrnRpazqKWpKTnz931eWk34pAqyYmug-sGO_UuGmcP1R_kS3/s200/20180717_164902.jpg" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One of the cisterns.</td></tr>
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My soldier boy finished his second week in the army. As always it was a very good experience for him, and invaluable to Israel. I'm very proud of him.</div>
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Shabbat shalom from Jerusalem,</div>
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Peggy and Sid</div>
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Peg and Sidhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13785932543768697067noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7940580187060778966.post-60362041574476770152018-07-13T08:28:00.001-07:002018-07-13T08:28:48.549-07:00Borrowed Time<br />
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We've been coming to Israel for 2-1/2 to 3 months every year for the past 5 years. We've always stayed in the same neighborhood, Kiryat Shmuel. It's a lovely area, a 20 minute walk to everything, with good shopping, cafes and bakeries, great public transportation and a good vibe. Coincidentally we know several people who live in the neighborhood.</div>
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This time, well let's just say we're not in Kiryat Shmuel anymore. Not that we're in a bad neighborhood ... not by a long shot. Rehavia is one of Jerusalem's nicest. About 10 minutes closer to downtown, which also makes it 10 minutes farther to Pardes, and very quiet. There's no supermarket in the immediate vicinity, but there are three small grocery stores, several cafes, a pizzeria and the all-important gelateria around the corner. There are several bus lines but the stops are farther away. Our old neighborhood only had 2 bus lines, but the stop was almost across the street, and it seems we could get anywhere we needed to go on one of them. After 4 weeks we have concluded that we prefer the old neighborhood.</div>
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So imagine my surprise when on Tuesday night about 11PM I heard a racket that sounded like maybe someone was taking a building down. I went out to investigate and there was a bulldozer digging up the street. The city is replacing water pipes, and the work is done at night, 11PM to 4AM. So for two nights it was like being in a battlefield, but it was only two nights.</div>
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The apartment itself is very nice. Totally renovated. Two bedrooms and two bathrooms, one ensuite. This one has a washer AND a dryer, which isn't the norm in a country whose climate allows clothes to line dry in a couple of hours. And yes, people do hang laundry out to dry. I'm still stymied by the appliances. I can't figure out what all the symbols mean. All I know is that at home we have 3 temperature options - hot, warm and cold - and 3 types of laundry - dirty, really dirty and delicate. Here you need a decoder ring to figure how what settings to use. I decided the best way to go about this would be to use the setting that seemed the most reasonable in terms of time, which is one hour. At least it's not the 9 hour machine we had a few years ago. And I set the bar pretty low. If it's cleaner when it comes out than when it went in, that's good enough. The oven is also giving me grief. Too many symbols to figure out. And the landlord isn't much help, so I take my best guess and hope nothing blows up.</div>
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Sid completed his first week in the army. Once again he's at the central medical supply depot, packing kits and lifting cartons. He's with the same manager, in a group of about 30. He doesn't like his roommate, apparently no one else does either. This is unusual. I've never heard of anyone who participates in this program who isn't nice. I guess there always has to be an exception.</div>
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You probably don't hear about what's been going on here because the media can't bring themselves to report anything sympathetic about Israel. This past week a new treatment for Crohn's Disease was announced. This is on top of a string of recent advances in early detection and treatment of cancer.</div>
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On the other hand, there has been a constant barrage of terrorist attacks from Gaza by means of, believe it or not, kites, balloons and condoms armed with Molotov cocktails. Several thousand acres of farmland have been destroyed; the devastation is unimaginable. This low tech terrorism is very difficult to counter. The missiles, which leave no radar signal, are nearly impossible to detect. The IDF has tried using drones and lasers, with minimum effect. As long as the prevailing winds blow from west to east, this is going to be something to deal with for a long time.</div>
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If they would only use their creativity for something good, like establishing the institutions that would form a functioning civil society and earn the public trust ... but who am I kidding? What they really need to do is find a better use for the condoms ...</div>
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The other event that grabbed the headlines this week is the series of earthquakes that have occurred in the Galilee near Tiberias. They've been relatively low on the Richter Scale. I think the strongest was 4.2. But Israel is bisected by the Great African Rift Fault, which causes a major quake every 90-100 years. The last one was in 1927 and claimed 500 lives. We're almost overdue.</div>
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We're having our first Shabbat guests tonight - my Krav Maga instructor and training partner. We do have to keep in shape, mentally, physically and socially. After all, we are on borrowed time.</div>
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Shabbat shalom from Jerusalem,</div>
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Peggy and Sid</div>
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Peg and Sidhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13785932543768697067noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7940580187060778966.post-36049944776167055142018-07-06T04:49:00.000-07:002018-07-06T04:49:02.410-07:00The Week That Was<br />
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There was more going on this week than usual ... and usual is pretty busy.</div>
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Nir and his girlfriend Hannah arrived on Friday. There weren't enough brass bands in Israel to welcome them. We all gathered for brunch at Batsheva and Eli's to celebrate their arrival and to celebrate Moshe's birthday. So what does that mean? More food than usual and 3 cakes. If I don't put on 10 pounds on this trip it will be a miracle.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNNbsbM73Dbh2ne7zxi-BTfLh5CYAFAp6bv6zvPLMvfObhxpcnOllz6-DDmjsw-mAzDtPkmFgw8wuUq17M-fFEW4Jcl5agDUBlnZv5UQaHthdvBO2z8KbqAs5LFRDurKxRbcDH9egtNNPf/s1600/P80630-114903.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1185" data-original-width="1600" height="148" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNNbsbM73Dbh2ne7zxi-BTfLh5CYAFAp6bv6zvPLMvfObhxpcnOllz6-DDmjsw-mAzDtPkmFgw8wuUq17M-fFEW4Jcl5agDUBlnZv5UQaHthdvBO2z8KbqAs5LFRDurKxRbcDH9egtNNPf/s200/P80630-114903.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">L to R<br />Nissim, Hannah, Nir, Batsheva</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">L to R<br />Moshe, Talya, Hila, Nissim</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sid & Hannah</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">L to R<br />Yonatan, Tomer, Arel</td></tr>
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Jerusalem has the most amazing and unusual cultural events imaginable. On Sunday we went to a light show in the Old City. We meandered the alleyways, following an incredible laser light show. We wound up at the Kotel, which is simply splendid at night.</div>
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I started school on Monday. We were introduced to the Pardes Institute about 4 years ago, and have attended many classes and lectures there. It's a top notch academy with an exceptional roster of instructors. The course offerings were mind-boggling and it was difficult to choose which ones to attend. </div>
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I didn't realize what I was getting myself in to. I'd been looking forward to summer school at Pardes for months, but I didn't realize it would be like going back to college. My brain hasn't had this kind of workout since, well, college. And when I walked in, all I saw were kids. Uh-oh. Me and 20-somethings. Great. But grown-ups started to drift in, and someone told me that roughly one third of the 100+ students in the program are over 50. They come from everywhere - US, Canada, France, Australia, South Africa and Israel.</div>
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The days are long; I leave the apartment at 8AM and don't get back till after 6PM. The classes are 2-1/2 hours each, and I'm taking four, two of which complement each other. By the time the semester ends I'll be an expert in the Book of Exodus. Plus additional tours, lectures and classes that get squeezed in. As an added bonus the school is across the street from a very nice mall, and I rewarded myself for surviving the first week by buying a nice pair of Teva sandals.</div>
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We had a tour on Tuesday afternoon. A walking tour. In 90 degree weather. We started at the top of the Mount of Olives, walked all the way down to the bottom of the Kidron Valley thru the cemetery, with a stop at the tomb of the prophets (where none of the prophets is buried) and Absalom's tomb (where Absalom isn't buried) and back up to the Old City. The Mount of Olives saw a lot of action during Biblical times, and not merely because it was the 50-yard line for watching the destruction of both Temples. There is a place that has a direct line of sight to the doorway of the Temple, and it was on this spot that the priest burned the red heifer. On Yom Kippur the two goats were taken to the same location. Neither had a happy ending; one was thrown off the mountain and the other was sacrificed. The cemetery, which is about 3000 years old, is the final resting place of people from all walks of life. We visited the common grave of some of the defenders of the Jewish Quarter in the 1948 war. The youngest was a 10 year old boy. Most of the people buried there were civilians, but they were killed in combat, and they were enlisted in the IDF posthumously, given ranks and when the bodies were finally recovered from the Jewish Quarter after 19 years of Jordanian occupation, re-interred on the Mount of Olives. And it was from here that the operation to recapture the Old City in the 1967 war was launched. I had always understood that to be buried on the Mount of Olives today costs upwards of $50,000. Turns out it's not true. An Israeli citizen who resides in Jerusalem can be buried in any municipal cemetery. Hmmmm. Something to think about.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimGvi-txoUiWENErKffP3q863vOFcaFfZfldj-zXWf0R1RBIZsrlri7TDwvFBxxzxsdp4aV29vsVdCXH203iMG9N2f9XZGwZ4qo5eU_CwEAmfat4s8SVfc3sMxLpHodH1SANMgv2PJQ5xy/s1600/P80703-162537.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1185" data-original-width="1600" height="148" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimGvi-txoUiWENErKffP3q863vOFcaFfZfldj-zXWf0R1RBIZsrlri7TDwvFBxxzxsdp4aV29vsVdCXH203iMG9N2f9XZGwZ4qo5eU_CwEAmfat4s8SVfc3sMxLpHodH1SANMgv2PJQ5xy/s200/P80703-162537.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mount of Olives Cemetery; my future home</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSvMDn1JNKt5qCsZ0Wj81c1Qry6ksoxeJnUSIBesMC8-A_Dj0751n3Zwj4mkScKcVnp9MfzMxCIEeI-qlJiv3AN1EAGUMNXrRZhoK2MjwxABpbAB5qJ4doMu_mYknHBLosphHtR8rECQ-p/s1600/P80703-164205.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1185" data-original-width="1600" height="148" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSvMDn1JNKt5qCsZ0Wj81c1Qry6ksoxeJnUSIBesMC8-A_Dj0751n3Zwj4mkScKcVnp9MfzMxCIEeI-qlJiv3AN1EAGUMNXrRZhoK2MjwxABpbAB5qJ4doMu_mYknHBLosphHtR8rECQ-p/s200/P80703-164205.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tomb of Nissim Gidi, the 10 year old defender of the Jewish Quarter in the 1948 War</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnO2YeYmk81Tw-U27FLelPdnuORN4q_6EVNyk_BBvTTI_3fhX9RyD_LvTQAVQCdI2VAMSLxUzYISuC2iK80aKHgI9wpfz_GaRTWrlIdHG0goai5y_YBxYqMhKckevEQdOl728mWC5pqfHR/s1600/P80703-163136.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1185" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnO2YeYmk81Tw-U27FLelPdnuORN4q_6EVNyk_BBvTTI_3fhX9RyD_LvTQAVQCdI2VAMSLxUzYISuC2iK80aKHgI9wpfz_GaRTWrlIdHG0goai5y_YBxYqMhKckevEQdOl728mWC5pqfHR/s200/P80703-163136.jpg" width="148" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Common grave of the last defenders of the Jewish Quarter in the 1948 War</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXZOixB4nTzVs00EQ-TXiDZkMy32f5VJ3eacEBjd-ZpGFl5cOVWufhD3dCaxhTYnKGmLsmtzey2wexrfSUFk-HrDf7jg8Kv_u7F3opElSdTQxzez3fUDfxR-6ECli0V8B2oZ10-SVeOvoT/s1600/P80703-165438.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1185" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXZOixB4nTzVs00EQ-TXiDZkMy32f5VJ3eacEBjd-ZpGFl5cOVWufhD3dCaxhTYnKGmLsmtzey2wexrfSUFk-HrDf7jg8Kv_u7F3opElSdTQxzez3fUDfxR-6ECli0V8B2oZ10-SVeOvoT/s200/P80703-165438.jpg" width="148" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ossuaries, where bones are stored after removal from burial caves</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOPY90DwWQTZ7zjiXZYlZ9hedRLdR-a7yrGSOpTBZxZSXm7LPqHCqf_kVyulvUaSOPdn3-Dz4UzdCE1j2ZGXmpv6-4vCyOlqDtkTQTJOUi9IH9CMnR8d4fHa7w8G-y6KYT1AbLP1l4BTkM/s1600/P80703-155527.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1185" data-original-width="1600" height="148" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOPY90DwWQTZ7zjiXZYlZ9hedRLdR-a7yrGSOpTBZxZSXm7LPqHCqf_kVyulvUaSOPdn3-Dz4UzdCE1j2ZGXmpv6-4vCyOlqDtkTQTJOUi9IH9CMnR8d4fHa7w8G-y6KYT1AbLP1l4BTkM/s200/P80703-155527.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">But without the prophets. In fact a burial cave for the well-to-do</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjm37Sphpew89IfAxbk1BK-UBsAgNdJ24Ui6OVaxoHvN5fYS0VBQHjY1Y9q_w5apJVynmGIzR59iZhmL2-Ev5zGTNwrBhx-Axd2gB0iaMXRTSjAf7KMBR-22E1xv-vhbgSfRw8A_rg-ByJt/s1600/P80703-160221-04.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjm37Sphpew89IfAxbk1BK-UBsAgNdJ24Ui6OVaxoHvN5fYS0VBQHjY1Y9q_w5apJVynmGIzR59iZhmL2-Ev5zGTNwrBhx-Axd2gB0iaMXRTSjAf7KMBR-22E1xv-vhbgSfRw8A_rg-ByJt/s200/P80703-160221-04.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Inside the burial cave where the caretaker did his best to convince us that <br />Zacharia, Haggai and Malachi, the last three prophets are buried</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRy3PwczvXw2mBROti0jNLQSu734msA7fLLv7lWMOFfFf095J52Kq7BCWJjs2anK7PQ3N0CTMH3o-jfTF3ZuWm-5sVNP4LCY8thYAZpl6uhMLVvEnJkZkt__9UW3vNKmnqY-8x2I4Q4wlL/s1600/P80703-174014.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1185" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRy3PwczvXw2mBROti0jNLQSu734msA7fLLv7lWMOFfFf095J52Kq7BCWJjs2anK7PQ3N0CTMH3o-jfTF3ZuWm-5sVNP4LCY8thYAZpl6uhMLVvEnJkZkt__9UW3vNKmnqY-8x2I4Q4wlL/s200/P80703-174014.jpg" width="148" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Absalon's tome, but no Absalom</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2jOznSvg2046Opl6Pviwn4kPw0Nxu8AjBhnGJ7GNBP2qgaH1UF8K0EdeaDKnJfMZIDdRUBCJFPxV2Ij0TI4zS6kwK5PnBdaFSDfGx8QjAvJWurKAHixp-D6b6M8INJOWcXy8ZZh07jXV6/s1600/P80703-175534.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1185" data-original-width="1600" height="148" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2jOznSvg2046Opl6Pviwn4kPw0Nxu8AjBhnGJ7GNBP2qgaH1UF8K0EdeaDKnJfMZIDdRUBCJFPxV2Ij0TI4zS6kwK5PnBdaFSDfGx8QjAvJWurKAHixp-D6b6M8INJOWcXy8ZZh07jXV6/s200/P80703-175534.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">First Temple era burial site<br />Oddly reminiscent of Petra</td></tr>
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Wednesday was the Fourth of July. It's a diplomatic event here, even among the many Americans who live in Israel. We attended a very interesting conference sponsored by the Middle East Forum. It was called the Israel Victory Project, which is a new approach to resolving our 100 Years War. The premise is that Oslo and the "Two State Solution" were destined to fail from the get-go, and the only way progress can be made on the "peace process" is by convincing the Palestinians that there is no way they will ever be able to take over the region and wipe Israel off the map. What none of the geniuses who run the world can grasp is, that's the core of the stalemate. As long as any single Palestinian believes that one fine day they will have a country from the Jordan to the Sea, as they like to chant, there will never be any kind of resolution. The idea has merit. But someone has to figure out how.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNDkfHO1KJ2PyGLwiMN5D019ZwmZAiWJbb5XOou8G0-yIiHM4JaX-fwmShV6StlE0FPoF_qNSHM3FVa0s5WAJNu0lRmVkTeFRSzDVFqhvvbvJgof4QhBr7_u0WkneRKIMJbptWqZm9cizD/s1600/20180704_195741.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNDkfHO1KJ2PyGLwiMN5D019ZwmZAiWJbb5XOou8G0-yIiHM4JaX-fwmShV6StlE0FPoF_qNSHM3FVa0s5WAJNu0lRmVkTeFRSzDVFqhvvbvJgof4QhBr7_u0WkneRKIMJbptWqZm9cizD/s200/20180704_195741.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We should be so lucky</td></tr>
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Maybe by next week I'll have an answer.</div>
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Shabbat shalom from Jerusalem,</div>
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Peggy and Sid</div>
Peg and Sidhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13785932543768697067noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7940580187060778966.post-38509722378393848252018-06-29T01:10:00.003-07:002018-06-29T01:10:29.120-07:00The Red Carpet<br />
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People who live in LA, NY or DC are used to seeing celebrities and power brokers. People who live in Chicago, not so much.</div>
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Israel too sees lots of the internationally known and recognizable. Ringo Starr was here this week (finally, for the first time). He performed two shows in Tel Aviv (to mixed reviews, I might add).</div>
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But we've never had a member of the British Royal Family here on an official visit. This wrong, in a very long line of wrongs committed by the Brits against Israel and the Jews, was righted this week. Or maybe not.</div>
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Prince William's visit stirred controversy the moment his 4-day itinerary was published. What ruffled feathers here was the wording that identified the Old City as being located in the "Occupied Palestinian Territories". The announcement came from Kensington Palace, but was likely formulated by the Foreign Office, which has a deep and abiding hostility to Israel, not unlike our State Department.</div>
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I don't have a lot of respect for the Royal Family. I think they are a dysfunctional tribe of inbreds, who have been programmed to walk, talk, ride horses and dress well, but they're not known for their brains. This might not be a bad thing. It would be unthinkable if they were allowed to say whatever is on their minds, as proved by an unscripted comment the Prince made during his visit with Mahmoud Abbas. He used the phrase "our two countries", which could have caused a big diplomatic dust-up had Israel decided to pursue it. Someone obviously forgot to tell William that "Palestine" is not a country. Or maybe that's exactly what they wanted him to say.</div>
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The fact that a member of the Royal Family was here on an official visit is a big deal. Commentators have weighed in on what the visit means and what it's supposed to accomplish. Some think it's a counterweight to all the love Israel is getting from the Trump administration. Others think it might reflect a small change in the Foreign Office's attitude. The visit was a departure from 70 years of tradition, an acknowledgement that in spite of its best efforts the Brits weren't able to derail Israel. And if he has eyes to see for himself, the future king of England would have to note two realities. One, Israel is a dynamic, successful country. Two, BDS, which is actively promoted in the British media, not to mention the Labour Party, is a complete lie. There is no apartheid, there are no massacres.</div>
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The Prince stayed at the King David, which was British Military Headquarters when they were the occupying power in this region under the Mandate. The hotel pulled out all the stops to make William feel at home, including importing his favorite tea from England. Our friend Jeremy is the assistant manager for guest relations, and he told us a little back story, known only to a select few. Jeremy's mom personally went to Fortnum & Mason to buy the tea, and hand delivered it to the hotel last Sunday. I'm sure no one mentioned this to the Prince, but now she wants to get a royal appointment as a buyer of deliverer of tea.</div>
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We had another royal event this week, in the sense that on their wedding day brides and grooms are compared to a king and queen. Our friends Evelyne and Jacques' son Yaniv got married to the lovely and charming Natalie. The wedding was held in Caesarea and it was beautiful. Weddings here are not like they are at home. They are not staged, there is no bridal party, procession or recession. There is a reception before the ceremony, with plenty of food and drink. You need the sustenance because you can count on at least 3 hours from the start time on the invitation until dinner is served. Traditionally the bride and her mother and mother-in-law are seated and female guests tell them how beautiful they look and give them their best wishes. The groom and male guests are in a separate area where they sign the ketuba, learn some Torah, and knock back a few shots. Two things you can count on when you go to an Israeli wedding in the summer. One, it won't rain so you can hold the ceremony outside. Two, the food will be sensational. It's not uncommon for people to stand during the ceremony, and it's very participatory. The rabbi usually makes lighthearted comments to put everyone at ease and there's a lot of singing. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeJPzs3SyoeOveInStP3f1elIukLZBqmvuHdlzjduHrbPuI8MZRc9a0j1YeLCQ4bB-597bcvEdmYFhGQLz73ycwysojSrc384jB4oSX3tFzTbCgIndatGBndZapxmYyRQOb3seUuUF5h3G/s1600/P80627-203213.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1185" data-original-width="1600" height="148" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeJPzs3SyoeOveInStP3f1elIukLZBqmvuHdlzjduHrbPuI8MZRc9a0j1YeLCQ4bB-597bcvEdmYFhGQLz73ycwysojSrc384jB4oSX3tFzTbCgIndatGBndZapxmYyRQOb3seUuUF5h3G/s200/P80627-203213.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">L to R Natalie's mom, Natalie and Evelyne</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjByGyOyn3ytzlmvR2JewP866CXVeLcvJBiTcS7Llt-8N-cLZF3WF0ZyRAtcTGmxrU_7OLZgFxagg4MzzpznuVzQDOb_ZILaMsXmcEl81IJodxD2IvOOESNi_Xg_uQlk-RNoTXBt1m4V6jC/s1600/P80627-210845.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1185" data-original-width="1600" height="148" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjByGyOyn3ytzlmvR2JewP866CXVeLcvJBiTcS7Llt-8N-cLZF3WF0ZyRAtcTGmxrU_7OLZgFxagg4MzzpznuVzQDOb_ZILaMsXmcEl81IJodxD2IvOOESNi_Xg_uQlk-RNoTXBt1m4V6jC/s200/P80627-210845.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Under the chuppa</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8uYCU87ysQFvG6UQYs2WBLGovVj1X47Kr_19ME5ONoOx3MV6QpAnSPVi56uKf_uwNQJC09uxMmZ_vx_BhMOsWpmQqnxYqvFovbgx2XgnOImOHR14Kp8Zm-OIh2suG6D-qDvZIYsKZYnuK/s1600/P80627-211445%25281%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1370" data-original-width="1600" height="170" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8uYCU87ysQFvG6UQYs2WBLGovVj1X47Kr_19ME5ONoOx3MV6QpAnSPVi56uKf_uwNQJC09uxMmZ_vx_BhMOsWpmQqnxYqvFovbgx2XgnOImOHR14Kp8Zm-OIh2suG6D-qDvZIYsKZYnuK/s200/P80627-211445%25281%2529.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Note the groom's tallit. In some traditions a man doesn't wear one until he gets married.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-rDN6T_2OTWV30NaIpXnLZULiqlWnRByQTEZ-zCJrJgF9ENJ5MArWczM32yCvBaMLMlgmglXHvN-kX49Bwt1XEPLRDs1XFuMFZNuR4R9ZjaRvp0im7r1s2Otv1ddviESzBa3f5y3fZr4e/s1600/P80627-232301%25281%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1370" data-original-width="1600" height="170" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-rDN6T_2OTWV30NaIpXnLZULiqlWnRByQTEZ-zCJrJgF9ENJ5MArWczM32yCvBaMLMlgmglXHvN-kX49Bwt1XEPLRDs1XFuMFZNuR4R9ZjaRvp0im7r1s2Otv1ddviESzBa3f5y3fZr4e/s200/P80627-232301%25281%2529.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yes, they pass out swag at these parties</td></tr>
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We finished the week with the Melabev Sunset Hike. Melabev is an organization we got involved with 5 years ago. It provides care for Alzheimer's patients and families. They have day centers with activities geared towards patients with varying degrees of the illness. They also have a phone center, staffed by volunteers, who make daily wellness calls. In addition they provide services to homebound elderly, such as shopping, transportation and small repairs, again by volunteers. In addition they have a research division that has made significant contributions to medical treatment options. All this costs money, and we are reaching out for help. Please click on or copy the link below and sponsor us in ANY amount. Every penny is appreciated and wisely used.</div>
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https://walk4alz.melabev.org/walkers/?page=2</div>
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Because this is Israel's 70th anniversary, we began the hike at Mt Herzl, the military cemetery. It's the highest point in Jerusalem; Yad Vashem in the adjacent valley is the lowest. The placement is no coincidence. Also buried at Mt Herzl are Theodore Herzl himself and several presidents and prime ministers. Soldiers' headstones are marked with their names, ranks, dates and places of birth, dates of aliya for those who were not born in Israel, and when and where they died. Talk about the ingathering of exiles. Two of the graves we visited were those of Bibi's brother Yoni Netanyahu, the only casualty of the Entebbe Rescue on July 4, 1976, and Michael Levin, a lone soldier from Philadelphia who was killed during the second Lebanon War in 2006. Michael's grave is one of the most visited in the cemetery because his story resonates with so many people. There are hundreds of mementos in solidarity to his devotion to Israel. He had no family in Israel, yet his funeral was attended by literally thousands of strangers who wanted to make sure he was not buried alone. </div>
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The hike itself was in the Jerusalem Park, a wilderness area within the city limits. It is part of the Israel Trail, a hiking route that bisects the country from north to south. We only did 1.5 kilometers, but it was a bit challenging, downhill on rocks and gravel almost the entire way. There's a real sense of accomplishment when you get to the end of the hike ... and they rolled out the red carpet with a great barbecue dinner for us.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrKdF1N22zt1nQ0wSmAVBlGhgL4vuOfTuxi9e9Z5qUiONNxLF8UnTXi3WPRYLIqvOi-kVd3bxEVTjAHd5WhOB2TdXaQCw0LYPag54KCL46eAAKyqYMB8VhN1QtOJbxpcVFpcLgZ9gXA6bw/s1600/P80628-164247.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1185" data-original-width="1600" height="148" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrKdF1N22zt1nQ0wSmAVBlGhgL4vuOfTuxi9e9Z5qUiONNxLF8UnTXi3WPRYLIqvOi-kVd3bxEVTjAHd5WhOB2TdXaQCw0LYPag54KCL46eAAKyqYMB8VhN1QtOJbxpcVFpcLgZ9gXA6bw/s200/P80628-164247.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Registration</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpCCp4Xx3dCj_mAUZf2cSW_h14BUonxYzdYVxR62aDEIQv6zobSr_SbfxOEwaqDaUMKI9x8a8wp-O5G3AEPDMaxvB6APm9YKEurjDhg6zv1jxGrxGwqxp1Cw7ULzRaDrQH_YcRcPs0clyB/s1600/P80628-172656.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1185" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpCCp4Xx3dCj_mAUZf2cSW_h14BUonxYzdYVxR62aDEIQv6zobSr_SbfxOEwaqDaUMKI9x8a8wp-O5G3AEPDMaxvB6APm9YKEurjDhg6zv1jxGrxGwqxp1Cw7ULzRaDrQH_YcRcPs0clyB/s200/P80628-172656.jpg" width="148" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jeff, our guide, explains the cemetery's layout</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2XlHuQA1LG83AA5qerTySrsa3KXLNJA5rZrOUQodhFQEueTTSgPdpxqsCQdPq4F9_xEP0fwD-tj6pYku2ClDHuK1YROcOzQJARgHI4lrgIqjnu6kQP40RnBsQ6HdmDQ1H7QeUl8WcibS6/s1600/P80628-173014.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1185" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2XlHuQA1LG83AA5qerTySrsa3KXLNJA5rZrOUQodhFQEueTTSgPdpxqsCQdPq4F9_xEP0fwD-tj6pYku2ClDHuK1YROcOzQJARgHI4lrgIqjnu6kQP40RnBsQ6HdmDQ1H7QeUl8WcibS6/s200/P80628-173014.jpg" width="148" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yoni Netanyahu's grave </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-Uwa__3qUcDwNRM7XAbNJUOBtzD3URz6dLz8WS9zpxUQ1mFWJ1p6mg9wiz7J4_7w4fXtF-p8DqTlH01AqgMI1kZq8Yhvc9HHVqnLya9679RXXMSv38RL-uV15dPt-is8aNfUK3yn6Ci_m/s1600/P80628-173447.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1185" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-Uwa__3qUcDwNRM7XAbNJUOBtzD3URz6dLz8WS9zpxUQ1mFWJ1p6mg9wiz7J4_7w4fXtF-p8DqTlH01AqgMI1kZq8Yhvc9HHVqnLya9679RXXMSv38RL-uV15dPt-is8aNfUK3yn6Ci_m/s200/P80628-173447.jpg" width="148" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Michael Levin's grave covered with mementos</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvgxLMzr3vKzwOfWHHGrNMhmRzldrL2uNOoEv7rWoKxQbxDyNhrQt3HUv-TDZScdHV2aeIOPbHq3wRk1FJzwTcvEoRFoJxIGrm26rr_Ba4iab3vFBBHqae_APLhPSFZrcErnzThKSncM3A/s1600/P80628-184204.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1185" data-original-width="1600" height="148" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvgxLMzr3vKzwOfWHHGrNMhmRzldrL2uNOoEv7rWoKxQbxDyNhrQt3HUv-TDZScdHV2aeIOPbHq3wRk1FJzwTcvEoRFoJxIGrm26rr_Ba4iab3vFBBHqae_APLhPSFZrcErnzThKSncM3A/s200/P80628-184204.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This is the terrain. We hiked down to the road in the background.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhy6QpXQN5DFPjdpjULgiVWtbOxJsd5g21D7OZodPmLH1e2-kcObO1AMf12R_V75zsYkQdJjywCDhEI07Zfp-ro5SqnK83w4uj-4BEX0ojZcvoRmaX3F5IkLjpZvY7wVwflY_4z9jBMP2I9/s1600/P80628-181250.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1185" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhy6QpXQN5DFPjdpjULgiVWtbOxJsd5g21D7OZodPmLH1e2-kcObO1AMf12R_V75zsYkQdJjywCDhEI07Zfp-ro5SqnK83w4uj-4BEX0ojZcvoRmaX3F5IkLjpZvY7wVwflY_4z9jBMP2I9/s200/P80628-181250.jpg" width="148" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And a good time was had by all</td></tr>
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Till next time ...<br />
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Shabbat shalom from Jerusalem,<br />
Peggy and SidPeg and Sidhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13785932543768697067noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7940580187060778966.post-9832055771724316622018-06-22T01:59:00.000-07:002018-06-22T01:59:34.739-07:00Getting over jetlag: a thankless task<div style="text-align: justify;">
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One of the highlights of being here for me is my Monday morning women's class. The intellectual level beats anything I've ever experienced. The class consists of three 45 minute lectures - Prophets, Torah and a guest lecture. In the Prophets class we're studying the relationship between the books of Samuel and the Psalms of David. In the Torah class I think we've moved ahead by two weekly portions in the 6 months since we were here last. The guest lectures vary in quality. This week's guest is someone highly regarded in the ultra-Orthodox world, but her topic was entry-level and honestly I think she misjudged her audience. Oh well, they can't all be winners.</div>
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Sid walked me over to the class. It was a perfect Jerusalem morning - sunny and about 75 degrees with a light breeze. There is something about the air in Jerusalem in the morning. You get the scent of jacarandas without the fumes from buses that still run on diesel and leave clouds of black smoke in their wake. This is rapidly changing. The new buses are air-conditioned, wifi-enabled and equipped with charging stations. And they're much nicer to the environment and the air we all breathe.</div>
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Afterwards we needed to go to the shuk and then return the car. Well guess what. Another ticket. WHY????? The girl who set up my parking account told me the meter would automatically start at 8AM and shut off at 6PM. But that's not what happened. When I looked at the app the meter wasn't running. So now I'm the proud recipient of two 100 shekel tickets. It's useless to complain to the parking company, but I will throw myself on the mercy of the municipality and claim tourist-ignorance. We'll see how it goes.</div>
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So we went to the shuk, which is always a treat It has become the second most visited site in Jerusalem. By now I think there's an equal number of vendors and restaurants. This says a lot about how food is distributed and how the city has developed. </div>
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Once upon a time when I lived here the population was about 325,000. You had three options for buying groceries: the makolet, the shuk or one of Jerusalem's two supermarkets. </div>
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The makolet is more or less what we would call a convenience store. They were very small but had most things people need on a daily basis. At the time people shopped every day or every other day. Fridges were small and there's a thing here about fresh bread, produce and dairy products. There was a makolet every few blocks to serve the neighborhood, and the owners knew their customers. They played a significant role in the economics of the city. It's important to remember that between 1948-1967 Jerusalem was a backwater. There was very little business and almost no industry. It was a struggle to make a living, and to make it to the end of the month as we used to say. A lot of people had to buy on credit until they got their monthly paycheck, and they could do so at the local makolet. Fast forward 50 years. The population of Jerusalem is about 860,000 and new planned neighborhoods sprang up all over the place. Part of the planning included shopping centers with supermarkets, hardware stores etc. In the older neighborhoods many of the makolets have turned into 24-hour stores, or disappeared altogether. We have an authentic from the old days makolet a couple doors down from this apartment. </div>
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The first supermarket in Jerusalem, Supersol, opened in the early 60's. It was a phenomenon and a curiosity. People flocked to see this new world of shopping and it was a great success. But it didn't replace the local makolet. Back then owning a car was the exception and shlepping a week's worth of groceries on the bus was difficult. Besides, there was the freshness factor and Supersol didn't extend credit.</div>
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Third was the shuk. No question about freshness. Produce that was picked in the morning was sold the same day. Everyone had their favorite vendors and they got to know each other. They could chat, get advice on cooking (and life in general), exchange political opinions. Most of the shopping was done on Thursdays and Fridays in preparation for Shabbat, and people did shlep on the bus. But the vendors didn't extend credit. </div>
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It's different now. Everyone has a car, a credit card and a larger capacity fridge. Shopping habits have changed, the makolets began to disappear and even the shuk sees nearly as many tourists as shoppers.</div>
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A few years ago someone had the brilliant idea of developing the shuk after-hours. When the vendors went home at the end of the day it was a large empty space. The metamorphosis began when a famous graffiti artist started tagging the metal shutters that came down on the stalls at night. That in itself was a draw. Then someone figured out that where people gather maybe they'd like something to eat or drink. The idea caught on; now the shuk is full of restaurants, cafes, bars and a few boutiques. When it's time for the produce vendors to retire one of their options is to sell their space to a restaurateur. The ratio is changing and this has become a concern. The vendors' association is considering putting a limit on the number of non-produce businesses that can open. </div>
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Then we returned the car. When I pulled into the rental garage the guy who took the car said I look angry. Was something wrong with the car? I was taken aback. I explained about the tickets. He listened patiently and said calling the parking company wouldn't get me anywhere, but calling the city parking department might. When he handed me the receipt I asked him if I still looked angry. No, he said, and I really did feel better. Shows what a sympathetic ear can do for a person. </div>
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We walked home and I made one of our favorite dinners - schnitzel. </div>
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On Tuesday we went to Tel Aviv for a meeting with the Jaffa Institute. They provide three types of social services to a very disadvantaged population in south Tel Aviv and Jaffa: a residential facility with 10 kids, after school programs and a parent-child drop in center. The stories are heartbreaking, and the work they do is amazing. Details on their website <span style="background-color: white; color: #006621; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 14px; white-space: nowrap;">www.jaffainstitute.org. </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiEpqF6P9CrTpr5kj6MzuEKAnWTANptTjkr5Rm7GWSvkXpceM7ISMZoq1CW_X1DaWRoy9pvsxU36I6FGT9qUKrPsQmc_IOTAksBEffLQeZC-nEmu424CdBVGh8MP9Ehp_mJCn7Gg8HtJ6l/s1600/20180619_150555.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiEpqF6P9CrTpr5kj6MzuEKAnWTANptTjkr5Rm7GWSvkXpceM7ISMZoq1CW_X1DaWRoy9pvsxU36I6FGT9qUKrPsQmc_IOTAksBEffLQeZC-nEmu424CdBVGh8MP9Ehp_mJCn7Gg8HtJ6l/s200/20180619_150555.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The residential facility</td></tr>
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We got back to Jerusalem around 630PM and had dinner in the shuk. Someone set up a large screen and broadcast the World Cup game between Poland and Senegal. It was a sensational game. The Senegal goalie was amazing, but one got past him. Still, they won 2-1.<br />
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Last night we went to Nissim's for a barbecue and family reunion. Cousins from the States were visiting, and their kids, who are second cousins, met for the first time. An Israeli barbecue is serious business. Mountains of chicken wings, lamb ribs, burgers, kabobs, grilled vegetables and the requisite selection of salads. Plus dessert.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpMj64R5EttqwrDKC5rOCIqBArR9FA03DofHfmVLO6Cvq8IHeGMn07t0_8mTvPdTzvslI8zC3PSmgk-jsJlpv0U6gpOSWjx-IExLfWuhW1i8QJ6sPKLxpqxqkWs3HJDoTSugagBAyGkt4d/s1600/P80621-190118.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpMj64R5EttqwrDKC5rOCIqBArR9FA03DofHfmVLO6Cvq8IHeGMn07t0_8mTvPdTzvslI8zC3PSmgk-jsJlpv0U6gpOSWjx-IExLfWuhW1i8QJ6sPKLxpqxqkWs3HJDoTSugagBAyGkt4d/s200/P80621-190118.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wings</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi27iKuTcPnzTQMElIXm2cb5ax9CxgkjBvhRiwMGybx5B4KddarrQtCya_QaZeC1bzHNndT7tz9MY7tUxyYaKK8eGQhzMSXZQ6H0LYeNr7hDVocsqvnQpI9mH7IaXzupZG0JKgJy8rZ5Che/s1600/P80621-190302.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1185" data-original-width="1600" height="148" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi27iKuTcPnzTQMElIXm2cb5ax9CxgkjBvhRiwMGybx5B4KddarrQtCya_QaZeC1bzHNndT7tz9MY7tUxyYaKK8eGQhzMSXZQ6H0LYeNr7hDVocsqvnQpI9mH7IaXzupZG0JKgJy8rZ5Che/s200/P80621-190302.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Salads</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRxCdKLewKtso7dhUdKPOMHWIxFNLXpy2zLI_tivOjwFPAe5ja7EklMk7gJHcZmPKR4LiFaDZC9Vww1A_2fkTaCI9Kbzr-Brn7Tk3e4lT0kPQtg-URETUOwtIS5PIHvryJq6DqM8z_vRPr/s1600/P80621-190247.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1185" data-original-width="1600" height="148" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRxCdKLewKtso7dhUdKPOMHWIxFNLXpy2zLI_tivOjwFPAe5ja7EklMk7gJHcZmPKR4LiFaDZC9Vww1A_2fkTaCI9Kbzr-Brn7Tk3e4lT0kPQtg-URETUOwtIS5PIHvryJq6DqM8z_vRPr/s200/P80621-190247.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">All this waiting to be grilled</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3u37SXRTVcuU2VUPMOjd9eowzWgjIxxeSfc98nHxuP5JumnZM5v9CDKArD1wBddtVYJFQoTAanNWi-lRp9FDozGgIxFXDfHCSLuW_7tjJisnjVI-Ac0ErNpe-Dc6sVfq-ogh0yXgSf6Qo/s1600/P80621-190045.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1185" data-original-width="1600" height="148" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3u37SXRTVcuU2VUPMOjd9eowzWgjIxxeSfc98nHxuP5JumnZM5v9CDKArD1wBddtVYJFQoTAanNWi-lRp9FDozGgIxFXDfHCSLuW_7tjJisnjVI-Ac0ErNpe-Dc6sVfq-ogh0yXgSf6Qo/s200/P80621-190045.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nissim, Shlomit & Sid</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Some of the kids in the trampoline cage, where they can't get into too much trouble</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nissim and Shlomit live in the suburb of Mevasseret. It used to be a small village; now it's almost all the way to Jerusalem</td></tr>
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Sleep still eludes us. They say (whoever "they" are) it takes one day for each hour of time difference to adjust. We arrived a week ago so maybe we're in sync. Maybe.<br />
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Peggy and Sid</div>
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Peg and Sidhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13785932543768697067noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7940580187060778966.post-17408844633284773042018-06-17T09:59:00.002-07:002018-06-17T09:59:38.739-07:00Getting here June 2018<div style="text-align: justify;">
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The lyrics to Willie Nelson's "On the Road Again" keep running thru my head. Getting here took almost as long as a road trip.</div>
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We got to O'Hare at 10AM on Thursday June 14. Our flight to Philadelphia left at 1150, so we should have had plenty of time to sit in the Admiral's Club and relax. Except the guy who checked us in was a moron, and I don't suffer fools. It took him about 45 minutes. He had a confused look on his face, and I expected him to say something about a flight being cancelled or not being able to check our bags through. But no, he was just slow.</div>
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The flight to Philly was fully booked, and since I no longer have Gold status, we were in boarding group 8. As they boarded group 7 they announced that there was no more overhead space and all roll-aboard bags would have to be gate checked. Great. No way was I going to go along with that, particularly when the gate agent said they'd be checked to their final destination. Forget it. I had all my valuables in that bag. I begged and pleaded. I negotiated. I was willing to have the bag checked as far as Philly; we had enough time for me to get it from baggage claim and go back through security, but he said it has to go to the final destination. In fact this wasn't true. His colleague told him he could tag it to Philadelphia. Another idiot. Finally I told him I had medications that couldn't be in the heat and he relented, and a flight attendant actually cleared me a space in an overhead bin.</div>
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So we got to Philadelphia, the City of Brotherly Love. When we landed Sid realized he had forgotten to bring a change of clothes for the long flight to Prague. No worries, he said, there must be a souvenir store where I can buy a sweatshirt and sweatpants. Sure, at airport prices, I thought to myself. Well, I've never seen anything like the mall at the Philly airport. I don't know what motivated them to do this, but there's a shopping center in the terminal with stores like Brooks Brothers, Johnson & Murphy, The Gap, Mac, Victoria's Secret etc etc etc. And The Gap was having a sale ... imagine that. Problem solved. And then we went to their very nice Admiral's Club. For 4 hours.Yes, that long a layover. We could have taken a later flight out of Chicago, but flying at this time of year is actually more delay and cancellation prone than during the winter. Thunderstorms and lightening are not good for airplanes or the people inside.</div>
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The flight from Philly to Prague ... American is trying to out-do themselves in hiring idiots. We were in business class, where you get treated better, and there are certain things that you come to expect. Such as, when you board a flight attendant comes around with a tray of water, OJ and champagne. One of them did come down Sid's side, but not mine. I had to go to the galley and ask for a glass of water. Then the purser came around to get everyone's dinner order. I had pre-ordered - red snapper for Sid and a stuffed portobello mushroom for me. But Sid and I switched seats, which totally threw the purser; he just couldn't figure it out. And he kept referring to the fish as salmon. I thought maybe they had to change the menu for some reason. But in fact it was snapper. As far as my order, they kept bringing me multiple versions of vegetarian meals, which were for other people. Finally the flight attendant gave me something that was identifiable only by the covering of spinach on top of something that looked like oatmeal. No, this isn't what I ordered, and I showed her the menu that was very clear - PORTOBELLO MUSHROOM STUFFED WITH BULGAR WHEAT. How does that even remotely resemble spinach? Another confused look, but she finally brought the right item. I don't know who got stuck with the other vegetarian meals; maybe the crew. And the plane was a retrofitted 767 which should have been retired 20 years ago. I know, I'm a snob. Welcome to my pity party.</div>
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We landed in Prague and fortunately didn't have to change terminals. Just one thing ... the departure board doesn't give gate information. It says A, B or C, but no gate number. We asked two people, both of whom said the gate is A2. Having flown El Al many times and being very familiar with their security procedure we expected the gate to be open; it was 2 hours prior to departure. But no. No sign, no info, no staff. Nothing. We parked ourselves right across from the gate, and I took a little walk, just to move around after the long trans-Atlantic flight. I wandered into a Moser store, which makes Baccarat look cheap in comparison. You can buy a cordial glass for about $400. Absolutely the most stunning stemware, bowls and plates in Europe, if you can afford it.</div>
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The gate finally opened. It seemed everyone was waved through except us. Most likely it was because we were in transit. So we got asked the usual security questions (who packed your luggage, did anyone give you anything, who do we know in Israel etc) until we convinced the security officer we were trustworthy. We even had to identify our luggage, since we checked in at O'Hare; the security officer showed us a photo of our bags on his cell phone. Are these yours? Yes, and it's nice to know they hadn't been lost.</div>
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The flight was full, seats were small, overhead space crowded. That didn't bother us. The 3 women behind us, who never shut up, did. They talked nonstop during the 3-1/2 hour flight and they were loud. But to give you a sense of the contradictory nature of Israelis, when we landed and got up to get our bags from the overhead bin, the first to offer to help us were those women. We arrived at the far end of the airport, where the maintenance hangars are. That's what happens when you take a cheap airline. (We were on UP, which is the budget version of El Al.) We had to be taken by bus to the main arrival terminal, about a 10 minute drive. We got through immigration in no time, and our bags were priority (another perk of business class) so they came right away. And someone at baggage claim helped Sid grab them from the conveyor and put them on our carts.</div>
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Next came the rental car counter. There were 3 clerks taking care of 3 customers, so it should have taken about 5 minutes. Except the couple in front of us was trying to figure out the cheapest way for them to handle their cars. One of them was Israeli, meaning she has to pay VAT. The other was American, meaning he doesn't. I think they had to develop an algorithm to figure this out. When one of the other customers finished, Sid made a bee line to the open clerk. She had all our info, since we've rented from Eldan before, and it really did take only 5 minutes.</div>
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At last, we were on our way to Jerusalem. It was around 6PM and there were very few cars on the road. Within 15 minutes we were almost at Beit Shemesh when we hit the first traffic jam. It took 25 minutes to get through. It was a very bad accident; the car was completely burned up. We hadn't gone another 10 minutes when we hit the second traffic jam - another accident. Finally, traffic cleared and we sped our way to Jerusalem, only to discover that in the 6 months since we were here last, traffic patterns had changed but they hadn't gotten around to putting up directional signs. We took our best guess, which turned out to be right, and within 5 minutes got to the apartment. The landlord met us, gave a quick orientation, helped us get our luggage, and 5 minutes later we left to have dinner at Batsheva and Eli's.</div>
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Food, glorious food. They pulled out all the stops, as they always do. Everyone was there, all the kids and grandchildren (except Nir, who will be back from the States in 2 weeks), 15 in total. The girls, Hila and Talia, had a growth spurt. I think both of them added 6 inches. To give you an idea of how thoughtful Eli and Batsheva are, they sent us home with food for breakfast, knowing we wouldn't be able to go shopping till Sunday.</div>
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Neither of us slept well, tired as we were. Sid was up at 230 and for some odd reason, starving. It's a good thing we had food. I woke up at 345, tried my best to get back to sleep and failed. I got up at 530 and for some odd reason I too was starving. When you're wide awake at that hour, there's not much to do except unpack. At least we made good use of our time.</div>
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There was a sharav (sirocco) on Shabbat, which is a strong wind that starts in the Sahara and brings heat and sand. The temperature hit 105. We ventured out anyway, just for a 10 minute walk, which was as much as we could handle.</div>
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Finally around 3PM we were able to nap.</div>
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We spent the rest of the day in the apartment, which is very nice. Two bedrooms, two bathrooms, totally renovated, and a nice garden. The landlord supplied us with milk, eggs, jam and ketchup. Yes, an odd combination. He also gave us a nice bottle of wine. It was like a welcome amenity at the hotel. Photos will be forthcoming.</div>
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Again we had a bad night last night. We both woke up at 3, tried to get back into sleep and couldn't. We finally did what we should have done on Friday - we took a sleeping pill, and slept soundly until 1130AM.</div>
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We had two objectives for today. The first was to go and see the US Embassy. We couldn't park. As soon as we slowed down guards shooed us away. Telling them we voted for Trump didn't matter to them. We managed to take a photo. The second was to provision the apartment. We went to my new favorite store, Osher Ad, which is like Costco. $350 later we returned home.</div>
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My next project was figuring out how to pay for parking. There was a 100 shekel ticket on the windshield when we got into the car today, In many parts of the city, even residential areas, parking has to be paid for from 8AM to 6PM. Unlike what we have in Chicago, where you buy parking from a vending machine, here everything is automated. Once upon a time you could buy parking stickers and put them on the dashboard. Not anymore in Start-Up Nation. Luckily there was an ad for two parking companies on the sign that tells you the parking hours. I called and spoke to a very nice agent who walked me though the various options and set up my account over the phone. We'll see tomorrow morning if it worked. I don't want any more tickets.</div>
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Tomorrow we resume our regularly scheduled programming, which I'll report on in my next post on Friday.</div>
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Shavuah tov - have a good week - from Jerusalem,</div>
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Peggy and Sid</div>
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Peg and Sidhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13785932543768697067noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7940580187060778966.post-50952400406601023562017-12-29T07:58:00.000-08:002017-12-29T07:58:10.362-08:00December 27, 2017 ... time to say goodbye<br />
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It's 430AM, we're in the King David Lounge at the airport and I'm NOT happy.</div>
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This has been our best visit yet. We seemed to be busier than ever, yet there are so many things we didn't do. We didn't go to any of the museums. We were at the Kotel only once, during Sukkot. The women's side was so crowded I couldn't enter, so no note in the Wall. We did go to the Galilee for the Melabev hike, but we didn't do our usual 2-day trip. I wanted to go to Hamat Gader. We did make it to the Dead Sea. I didn't do any krav maga; in fact the only exercise I got was walking, which I did everywhere. I don't know if I should get on the scale when we get home. Actually I did try something new - pole dancing. Yes, folks, the latest craze for women, especially frum girls, is pole dancing. I read about it in the El Al magazine on the way here, and it turned out that the gym where I took my one and only and never again pilates class offers pole lessons. Believe me, it's way harder than it looks. The instructor has been doing it for 8 years and she's coordinated and graceful. I managed to get about 6 inches off the floor.</div>
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We ate out more than we ate in. I did very little cooking, but managed to eat a tree's worth of olives and about 5 kilos of bageles (not a typo - these are 2 inch diameter very crisp, round dry biscuits) and an equal amount of cheese. We tried a couple of new restaurants. Angelica, which everyone raves about, isn't a place we'll go back to. Jacko's is. The goose liver, which is my absolute favorite thing to eat in Israel because outside of France it's not available anywhere else, was sensational. I told Sid I could die happy after a meal like that.</div>
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The truth is, I didn't want to leave Jerusalem. There was so much going on that we had very little down time. The days when we had nothing scheduled I usually caught up on office work. We did a lot of cultural stuff - lectures, the Oud Festival, the operetta about the NILI spy ring, the Moroccan concert, the Frank Sinatra concert and we capped it off Sunday night with a performance of the Buena Vista Social Club, direct from Cuba. We had actually gone there last year when we were in Havana. This performance was better. My classes were wonderful. I took two classes at Pardes for the first time, and was almost able to complete a full semester. My Monday morning women's class just keeps getting better and better. I took 3 tiyulim (excursions) with a fabulous archaeologist, and one tiyul known in Hebrew as a yom kef, which means a day of fun. It consisted of performances by singers, a comedian, a Russian balled duo, and a fashion show. Obviously meant for women of a certain age, there were a few reluctant husbands who got dragged along. Mine wasn't one of them.</div>
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Socially we were also busy. A housewarming, a bar matzvah, a bat mitzvah, a cocktail party, Shabbat meals.</div>
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And we had excellent weather. It's not good for Israel, and they've already declared this a drought year. But for us it was great. We had a couple of days of rain, most recently on Sunday and Monday, when it poured. Otherwise sunny and in the 60's and 70's, which is unseasonable.</div>
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It's now Friday morning. The flights were fine and we had a nice driver from O'Hare - an Iraqi Assyrian who's been in the US since 1980. The weather, however, is awful. It had snowed some time in the past week, not much but enough to be plowed. The temperatures are in the single digits + our infamous windchill. Not engendered to make me happy to be back. </div>
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Already planning the next trip - some time in July for a month or 6 weeks.</div>
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Shabbat shalom from Chicago,</div>
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Peggy and Sid</div>
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PS - I only gained a kilo.</div>
Peg and Sidhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13785932543768697067noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7940580187060778966.post-88943464624996339812017-12-15T01:58:00.001-08:002017-12-15T01:58:15.480-08:00'Tis the Season<br />
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The Jewish year is filled with holidays and celebrations. In fact, there is only 1 month of the Jewish calendar that doesn't have any. Hanukkah is a minor holiday. In order to know what that means you have to understand what the major ones are. Basically they are the ones ordained in the Torah - Rosh Hashanah, Yom Kippur and the three pilgrimage festivals (Passover, Shavuot and Sukkot). The post-Biblical holidays such as Purim and Hanukkah are considered minor, but still very important.</div>
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The holiday celebrates a miracle that occurred after a victorious rebellion in the year 200 BCE (give or take a few years) against the ruling Seleucid king, Antiochus IV, who essentially outlawed Judaism and profaned the Temple in Jerusalem. (Current scholarship claims it also had elements of a civil war, but I'll leave that to the scholars.) The miracle was that a one-day supply of untainted oil lasted eight days, which was how long it took to harvest, press and transport olive oil to Jerusalem. The oil was used to light the Temple's menorah, and had to be kosher. </div>
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The only religious rituals are to light a special candelabra called a hanukkiah, and ideally place it in a window for all to see. No, it's not a menorah. A menorah has 7 candles, a hanukkiah has 9.</div>
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Hanukkah didn't become a big deal until the 20th Century, and for all the wrong reasons. Yes, I am a grinch. In certain parts of Europe it was customary to give kids a few coins, but that was about it. Because of timing, cultural influences, and let's face it, a dilution of Jewish traditions and practices, Hanukkah found itself competing with what I consider the unfortunate aspect Christmas - gimme gimme gimme. Today gift giving and decorating are what define both holidays for a lot of people. We aren't better off for the loss of spirituality.</div>
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Like any Jewish holiday, Hanukkah has it's culinary traditions, in this case oil. In Eastern Europe the food that is linked to Hanukkah is latkes (potato pancakes). In the Middle East and North Africa it's sfinge (a churro type of donut). In Israel it's sufganiyot (jelly donuts). </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5Os-JAbDfxEJ_xv4n4O-Ls37dtmKMKsrQ75kDnnvs34MJoui6hp-s8R2A7ObnyNQt7z9PVMPNX-N8VdfJR9_dLnJun0AAEZlevAOdnDQRcqORzkvC_50B43yKkuL8LfDZuOB337AavSHx/s1600/P71214-184610.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1185" data-original-width="1600" height="148" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5Os-JAbDfxEJ_xv4n4O-Ls37dtmKMKsrQ75kDnnvs34MJoui6hp-s8R2A7ObnyNQt7z9PVMPNX-N8VdfJR9_dLnJun0AAEZlevAOdnDQRcqORzkvC_50B43yKkuL8LfDZuOB337AavSHx/s200/P71214-184610.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sfinge. Yafit's specialty.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS2TGYrTdgNWW0FJiWgyLLXBmosVreqUcVtjWLywq5LJgZsT4oy07ITkqAJfvUfJjRq9-6G0AvpfPMKzAqrEWgnCy3684ts6srOVlSpWRFSM3fjOHL2NebtM6q1jT6diRBJO00kvQg4XcH/s1600/P71214-135036%25281%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1503" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS2TGYrTdgNWW0FJiWgyLLXBmosVreqUcVtjWLywq5LJgZsT4oy07ITkqAJfvUfJjRq9-6G0AvpfPMKzAqrEWgnCy3684ts6srOVlSpWRFSM3fjOHL2NebtM6q1jT6diRBJO00kvQg4XcH/s200/P71214-135036%25281%2529.jpg" width="187" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Original jelly donuts. Simple, uncomplicated, strawberry or raspberry, take your pick.</td></tr>
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Over the years sufganiyot have evolved from basic raspberry or strawberry filled donuts to the astounding variety available today. Every year something new gets added. The latest twist is savory sufganiyot, filled with meat and tehina. Turn up your nose if you want, but they've really caught on. (Ever hear of chicken and waffles?) </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgif1XYqYT8DUe42SGWO1uBxcikzCLl4udqs1rO6nD1ylV0K2INkHEN2jN7nM1E45js2RxuSeiiuYgX64mGMxZvy5rH5ErwrSh32NTbYxwVDscciwYyzT0A1w9j9ROz_vyP18Vg0i4NvNiM/s1600/P71214-135008%25281%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1589" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgif1XYqYT8DUe42SGWO1uBxcikzCLl4udqs1rO6nD1ylV0K2INkHEN2jN7nM1E45js2RxuSeiiuYgX64mGMxZvy5rH5ErwrSh32NTbYxwVDscciwYyzT0A1w9j9ROz_vyP18Vg0i4NvNiM/s200/P71214-135008%25281%2529.jpg" width="198" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJT_40h66lVe5HasGJ28ZZMPN7Ig9glGzhLjpPWRs1iXTxNV5dEyWOZlOw1DXVodMGP6ErEbjgHelCeeX8zJAmFZm2W6_fncx7juCfN4Mi0oDhfP466QC2ikpXuisJjytZW55vnC2QbKp6/s1600/P71214-135435%25281%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1074" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJT_40h66lVe5HasGJ28ZZMPN7Ig9glGzhLjpPWRs1iXTxNV5dEyWOZlOw1DXVodMGP6ErEbjgHelCeeX8zJAmFZm2W6_fncx7juCfN4Mi0oDhfP466QC2ikpXuisJjytZW55vnC2QbKp6/s320/P71214-135435%25281%2529.jpg" width="212" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">How do you pick just one?</td></tr>
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When I look at sufganiyot I see way beyond temptation and calories. They are a metaphor for Israel. There are many reasons why Israel is the amazing success story that it is. Creative thinking, problem solving, dreaming big, asking why not and not fearing to fail. All of these characteristics are embodied in these wonderful pastries, which have gone from simple to astounding in just 70 years.</div>
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Wishing you a very happy Hanukkah and Shabbat Shalom from Jerusalem,</div>
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Peggy and Sid</div>
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Peg and Sidhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13785932543768697067noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7940580187060778966.post-16039520941770269412017-12-08T03:11:00.001-08:002017-12-08T03:11:26.616-08:00Witnessing History<br />
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Ever since Trump was elected one of the threads of conversation among supporters of Israel is will he or won't he move the US Embassy to Jerusalem. Many voiced the opinion that it was just the price of admission to get the "Jewish" vote. Others viewed it through the prism of candidate Trump - he had no need to bribe any particular constituency. Looking back on the campaign, it was more thematic than specific. He talked about the principles and values of flyover America that got him elected. The shock and reaction still reverberate. The Democrats would rather die than cooperate. The Republicans would rather go down in flames than cooperate. Appointments and legislation are stuck in limbo. Leaks coming from government departments border on treason. Every thing is politicized. Anarchy seems to be just around the corner.</div>
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Every president since Gerald Ford has promised to move the US Embassy to Jerusalem, where it belongs. It is scandalous that the capitol of a sovereign nation isn't recognized, especially by its nominal strongest ally. I don't know of any other country that is subjected to this kind of humiliation. Moving the embassy has been a law in the United States since 1995, and was reaffirmed six months ago by Congress almost unanimously (a miracle considering how fractured Congress is). So how is it that every president since 1995 (Clinton, Bush, Obama and Trump) has been able to get away with not enforcing this law? By a little loophole called a waiver, that has to be signed every 6 months. Since 1995 the one thing every president has in common is their adherence to signing that waiver. In May, when Trump signed, the reaction was deja view all over again. This was compounded when he decided the pick up the gauntlet of solving the Israel-Palestine crisis. A lot of people were disappointed and figured that Trump, like all his predecessors, was just saying whatever he had to say to get elected.</div>
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There was a lot of speculation during the past week about a forthcoming announcement concerning the embassy relocation. Will he/won't he? Is it just more hype? Will he again cave to the received wisdom that any change in the status quo will cause the entire middle east to go up in flames?</div>
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On Wednesday Sid and I watched the speech that will go down in history. As I listened to the precise and carefully crafted speech, I thought back to November 29, 1947 and May 14, 1948. People were glued to their radios listening to the UN Partition Plan vote and the declaration of the establishment of the State of Israel. I thought about the blood and struggle that accompanied Israel's creation, and the wars that have been fought ever since. I thought about ramifications and repercussions, about doing and failing to do, about risks for peace and land for peace. As he's done since the day he announced his candidacy, Trump made it clear that he was breaking the mold (Let Trump Be Trump). In so many words he quoted Einstein's definition of insanity and said enough is enough, no more.</div>
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No, the sky won't fall. Security has been ramped up for the promised 3 days of rage that will come and go. But this is nothing new. There is terrorism every day here, but it's not reported outside of Israel. Last week alone an Israeli soldier was stabbed to death in Arad. A 70-year old was the target of a car ramming. He was only slightly wounded, but a bystander was severely injured. A group of kids on a hike was attacked by an Arab lynch mob. The 70-year old and the parents accompanying the hikers were armed and shot their assailants. More Arabs will be killed and wounded because of their self-inflicted violence than Israelis. This has been the case ever since the first of the Arab refusals. The fact has to be mentioned, over and over and over, that if the Arabs had accepted the UN Partition Plan, which gave THEM a state of their own, today they would be making plans to celebrate 70 years of statehood. They would have had everything they claim to want - independence, sovereignty, self-determination. And all that hysteria and hyperbole about blowing up the peace process and the two-state solution? There is no peace and there is no process. If there was any intention by the Arabs of working things out, their leadership would have called for quiet rather than violence. The goal was, is, and always will be to wipe Israel off the face of the earth. They don't want a state, peace or prosperity. It's beyond me that people still don't get that.</div>
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And by the way, where was the outrage back in April when Russia recognized Jerusalem as Israel's capitol? Where were the demonstrations against the Czech Republic, which did the same? What about burning the flags of other countries, from Belgium to the Phillipines, that are looking at real estate in Jerusalem? Betcha didn't know that, right? Because it wasn't reported, because there was no rioting in the streets of Ramallah and Gaza, and because the press only reports what makes Israel and the US look bad.</div>
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No one should make assumptions about where this will lead. Personally I think the best possible scenario is the absence of violence and terror because there will never be peace until the Arabs decide that's what they really want. Golda Meir said there will be peace when the Arabs love their children more than they hate ours. That was 45 years ago, and they are more willing than ever before to use their children as suicide bombers and human shields. A desire for peace has to come from the bottom up, because it certainly won't come from their leadership. In high school, when we studied about the 100 Years War, I couldn't understand how something could go on for that long. Now I do.</div>
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In spite of the hysteria, life continues as normal. We had a lovely couple of days at the Dead Sea, one of our favorite places in the world, and we celebrated another bar mitzvah - Moshe and Liat's son Yaniv. Last night we had dinner with Dori and her boyfriend Itzik in Tel Aviv. The big excitement was getting home. Our bus broke down about 15 minutes outside of Jerusalem. While boarding another bus that stopped to pick us up, someone told us if there were no seats left on this bus another would be coming in 5-10 minutes. We were more concerned with getting back to Jerusalem and didn't mind standing. But several people insisted on giving up their seats for us; there are advantages to being, ahem, older. When we got to the Central Bus Station in Jerusalem, the local bus to take us home was waiting and we hopped on. We didn't even get to the next stop and the bus hit a roadblock. A police car had cordoned off the street and there was no place to turn around so we were stuck for about 20 minutes. We thought it might be more demonstrations by the ultra-orthodox fringe against having to register for the draft. But when they finally let traffic resume I saw the reason for the hold-up - the van from the bomb squad. False alarm, and a fact of everyday life here.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYlc2mOKZHnWkHa-UkczP1tDxmjPISj9LAyBSI8HYIePdBOLzCpZUKXiiU7N99L8licY9Pp3Et-iRayIUPPrVo2pBTNriA4xxNZc8_IBklm5BMM6HXfbSnL7nOrn7_0SMlKG0xfC0TXB4M/s1600/20171204_161245.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYlc2mOKZHnWkHa-UkczP1tDxmjPISj9LAyBSI8HYIePdBOLzCpZUKXiiU7N99L8licY9Pp3Et-iRayIUPPrVo2pBTNriA4xxNZc8_IBklm5BMM6HXfbSnL7nOrn7_0SMlKG0xfC0TXB4M/s320/20171204_161245.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View from our hotel room with the Dead Sea and Moab Mountains of Jordan</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFH7a51867OyjHmKFEIjYSe0mJ-cdw8JpXMLdUYrrZAduOqZ2lVFegitJtme__k2aOh5bOVPKCZn41UUjr6HgggkeVC1oHXB3lamHtFL8zAaWsO8vLyQRSIyBK7rqJbbd8w-3IgYXotdbW/s1600/20171204_163519.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFH7a51867OyjHmKFEIjYSe0mJ-cdw8JpXMLdUYrrZAduOqZ2lVFegitJtme__k2aOh5bOVPKCZn41UUjr6HgggkeVC1oHXB3lamHtFL8zAaWsO8vLyQRSIyBK7rqJbbd8w-3IgYXotdbW/s320/20171204_163519.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sid, relaxed after a massage</td></tr>
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Shabbat shalom from Israel's capitol,<br />
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Peggy and Sid<br />
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<br />Peg and Sidhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13785932543768697067noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7940580187060778966.post-82222100244509232182017-12-01T05:31:00.000-08:002017-12-07T22:18:57.442-08:00Melabev<div style="text-align: justify;">
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In 2013 Sid and I decided to see what it would be like to spend a few months in Israel. We selected the months of November, December and January. We got to experience Thanksgivukkah, the very first time Thanksgiving and Hanukkah coincided (an event that won't be repeated for another 10,000 years), in a place that would give the event special meaning. It was the year of the toaster oven turkey, the postage stamp size apartment, and the meter and a half snowstorm that paralyzed Jerusalem for 5 days. Our granddaughter Dori had made aliya and was getting ready to enlist in the IDF, our granddaughter Meital spent a semester at Muss high school in Beer Sheva, and we celebrated our grandson Nir's bar mitzvah. </div>
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It was also the 10th Melabev Hike for Alzheimer's.</div>
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One day I was reading the Jerusalem Post and saw an ad for a hike being sponsored by an organization I had never heard of, in memory of someone Sid knew who had early onset Alzheimer's. I said we have to get involved with this. A couple of phone calls later we were signed up for a hike in the Judean Desert, along with about 50 other people. We have supported Melabev ever since.</div>
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Melabev was founded in 1981 for the comprehensive care of dementia patients. Services include day care centers, support groups for family members and caregivers, wellness calls, placing qualified home care workers, at-home therapeutic activities, a memory clinic, a proprietary software program of mind-stimulating exercises, a Neuronix Clinic and ground-breaking research unit.</div>
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I have toured their facility in Jerusalem and spoken with many on the professional staff. Everything about this organization impresses me, but some things stand out. They have a unit, composed strictly of volunteers, who make daily wellness calls to older adults living alone. In addition to saying hello, they provide practical help such as errands and home repair services, and referrals to other non-profits who provide medical equipment and meals. The at-home services include therapeutic activities such as art, gardening, fitness and cognitive stimulation for home-bound patients as well as in nursing homes. Support groups not only support families and caregivers, but also serve as networking centers for people who have to navigate the maze of bureaucracy in order to receive the benefits and services they are entitled to.</div>
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Melabev also has a research unit which developed Savion, a computer program designed to maintain and improve memory. The most exciting and optimistic breakthrough is Neuronix, which combines cognitive training and electromagnetic brain stimulation. The system has been proven to work in studies at Harvard and the treatment has been approved by the Israeli Ministry of Health as well as European Commission. Knowing how Europe feels about anything coming out of Israel, their approval really means something.</div>
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So yes, this episode is a request for funds.</div>
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Sid and I just completed a two-day hike in the Galilee for the 2017 Hike for Alzheimer's. We selected the "moderate" route; from time to time it was moderate, but at other times it was very challenging. When you do something like this there is a big sense of accomplishment, but in the end it's really all about raising funds for this remarkable organization. We urge you to donate in support:</div>
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http://hike4alz.melabev.org/hikers/</div>
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Just click on one of our names (or both if you insist) and sponsor us in any amount. Feel free to tell your friends. You will be doing a huge mitzvah and contributing to the quality of life for alzheimer's patients and their families. And maybe one day coming up with a treatment for this heart breaking disease. You will have our eternal gratitude.</div>
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Shabbat shalom from Jerusalem,</div>
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Peggy and Sid</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBZLBwLd09S5ja8HUcXm8Koo7BWCrPA6FsyazMVFdp-J7zZujpS-bJaecRPUb4uR6TkQ456wLxexmlKyzqNpHFC7RikmIVPgl5JO5-hkFlkiLo4VhypOf_l1FqEE6eYWYIoyKY6hYAv_uV/s1600/P71129-101359%25281%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1088" data-original-width="1600" height="217" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBZLBwLd09S5ja8HUcXm8Koo7BWCrPA6FsyazMVFdp-J7zZujpS-bJaecRPUb4uR6TkQ456wLxexmlKyzqNpHFC7RikmIVPgl5JO5-hkFlkiLo4VhypOf_l1FqEE6eYWYIoyKY6hYAv_uV/s320/P71129-101359%25281%2529.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The "moderate route" group. We started at Rosh Hanikra.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0To94UVbZAZFtzbVcXNUAZI-A0qWVnknNrCUtj3B7LeZXWlHwL85phf3UrREUzK_B0S579NIawMYmIfvaM9vpehsERArWayt_t8N7eo4Ea5AlOnKNWk3IAXnAwtbzUrHm-8EAJUEtToK-/s1600/P71130-101340-01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0To94UVbZAZFtzbVcXNUAZI-A0qWVnknNrCUtj3B7LeZXWlHwL85phf3UrREUzK_B0S579NIawMYmIfvaM9vpehsERArWayt_t8N7eo4Ea5AlOnKNWk3IAXnAwtbzUrHm-8EAJUEtToK-/s320/P71130-101340-01.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">These nasty bushes were the challenge. <br />
Thorns and thistles, and they hurt when you got stuck.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaZJ2AaVmp7cwG1WIaay_8VnBx-j6K-TE7fP9yVyCywDjFxi_BmeAB85LBR-Joeyobu9u3dQ4BqfSkRlCYrMlekSZ7yXhVD_77YVqE391mTd05BLjo1Tkdgs3oDJ5BdOw0SD1odCA83Jr_/s1600/P71130-101645.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1185" data-original-width="1600" height="237" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaZJ2AaVmp7cwG1WIaay_8VnBx-j6K-TE7fP9yVyCywDjFxi_BmeAB85LBR-Joeyobu9u3dQ4BqfSkRlCYrMlekSZ7yXhVD_77YVqE391mTd05BLjo1Tkdgs3oDJ5BdOw0SD1odCA83Jr_/s320/P71130-101645.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This is what serves as a trail marker in Israel.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipP0-I7Oe2TUtD2joNvqbzJ7vSLwjlYdwjPHG9MEggb4-aCeA0kPlQv4lkSf1Gc1L72zgU0mH3Fzjug89hGGtQw7vn6_RaZcu8RTTd1at7LhSreu6ZU5F_BfkyCy1U5vd5YIi8MPkimMPv/s1600/P71130-115245.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1185" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipP0-I7Oe2TUtD2joNvqbzJ7vSLwjlYdwjPHG9MEggb4-aCeA0kPlQv4lkSf1Gc1L72zgU0mH3Fzjug89hGGtQw7vn6_RaZcu8RTTd1at7LhSreu6ZU5F_BfkyCy1U5vd5YIi8MPkimMPv/s320/P71130-115245.jpg" width="237" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Uh-oh. Are we lost?</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE4c_cXmI-ENL12spRrtAuoFPVf4Sv5XFdji0RMejziIXPebllOhf1vc1KcsCovG4jVndfxcC0bm3VC-nPxlR_4106HyfFYgH8Juc95rgYdqAajPW2-2vMnEi3yvnz_2WkkPHy2QEn5RLs/s1600/P71130-164130.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1185" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE4c_cXmI-ENL12spRrtAuoFPVf4Sv5XFdji0RMejziIXPebllOhf1vc1KcsCovG4jVndfxcC0bm3VC-nPxlR_4106HyfFYgH8Juc95rgYdqAajPW2-2vMnEi3yvnz_2WkkPHy2QEn5RLs/s320/P71130-164130.jpg" width="237" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This is Chen. At 4'10", she was the security guard and paramedic.<br />
She was a paramedic in the Border Patrol.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUYAmn0CLXe8EJcdzkSn5sdVP5STZqaoiDY4ZBLcQdf8oQjulZtCgm7tNdFg99fjxwDYMEWSDUkDiNs9Um5UxLTUO-ZagOj11UKf_rnM4RD9oDfonhnDFOynEZ6gJvEWdej27YJg6Xmx92/s1600/P71130-141055-01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="1082" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUYAmn0CLXe8EJcdzkSn5sdVP5STZqaoiDY4ZBLcQdf8oQjulZtCgm7tNdFg99fjxwDYMEWSDUkDiNs9Um5UxLTUO-ZagOj11UKf_rnM4RD9oDfonhnDFOynEZ6gJvEWdej27YJg6Xmx92/s320/P71130-141055-01.jpg" width="225" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We made it to the end!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh65uQkoSj8PMI6WXnft1sMoeQ2O6nFk-my1udM5WWiAF-AeepPk0NiFFKJJ9QPm1ewlO7K6RVj-wzWGU0C3iB7oSgMFjdF-LyJ44wBsPu_gQ3_9GEbp9sLQaQjndBKHudgjngDxoatvH8u/s1600/P71130-155746%25281%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1395" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh65uQkoSj8PMI6WXnft1sMoeQ2O6nFk-my1udM5WWiAF-AeepPk0NiFFKJJ9QPm1ewlO7K6RVj-wzWGU0C3iB7oSgMFjdF-LyJ44wBsPu_gQ3_9GEbp9sLQaQjndBKHudgjngDxoatvH8u/s320/P71130-155746%25281%2529.jpg" width="278" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our post-hike stop was the Bahai Gardens in Akko. </td></tr>
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Peg and Sidhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13785932543768697067noreply@blogger.com0